Need for Speed: Porsche Unleashed
Unofficial Strategy Guide and FAQ
by Kasey Chang ([email protected])
special thanks to Jeff Reid
released January 17, 2002
0 Introduction
0.1 A word from the author
A quick browse through the gamefaq.com shows that there is no
NFS:PU FAQ. So here’s my version.
Jeff Reid has provided valuable assistance in this edition. His
charts and comments appear in the car tuning section and
Evolution section.
This is a FAQ, NOT a manual. You won't learn how to play the game
with this document, and I'm NOT about to add it to ease the life
of software pirates.
This USG only covers the PC version since that's the only version
that I have.
The game is known as “Need for Speed: Porsche 2000” in Europe.
Some of you may recognize my name as the editor for the XCOM and
XCOM2: TFTD FAQ's, among many others.
0.2 The Most Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Can you send me Porsche Unleashed (or portions thereof)?
A: No. It's in bargain bins now, so go buy it!
Q: Can you send me the manual (or portions thereof)?
A: No.
Q: Can you tell me the install code?
A: Look at the back of your NFS:PU CD case.
Q: I don't have the case!
A: Ask EA for a replacement, or buy another copy.
Q: Can you tell me how to play the game?
A: Read the manual.
Q: What’s the latest version?
A: You’ll need to sign-on to EA Racing, where autopatch is used.
Needless to say, hacked versions can’t be patched.
Q: How do I get it to work on Windows 2000?
A: You may need to limit virtual paging file, enable
compatibility mode, and maybe delete GIMME.DLL in the directory.
See http://www.racerplanet.com, FAQ section.
Q: How do I get past factory driver mission ______________?
A: Read the Factory Driver walkthrough
Q: Where are the cheat codes?
A: See the last section.
Q: Why do I only get access to 4 tracks when I start?
A: You gain additional tracks by progressing in Evolution.
Q: How do I make money in Evolution?
A: Buy a used car, fix it up, sell it for the value. Repeat until
satisfied with self-worth. You will ALWAYS make money this way.
Q: How is the price of a car calculated?
A: It appears to be dependent on 1) number of races, 2) number of
enhancement parts, 3) number of miles, 4) current condition (i.e.
has damage or not), 5) availability, and 6) age. The specific
formula is not known.
Q: Why can’t I change the gear ratios of the transmission?
A: Only racing class cars with racing gearboxes have individually
adjustable gear ratios.
Q: I didn’t get car X back in year Y. How do I get it now?
A: Some cars disappear from market forever after certain years.
If you missed it, there’s nothing you can do. (Some claimed that
they MAY still appear, but the chances are like 1 in 10000, so
you’ll have to buy/sell LOTS of cars) Also see Jeff Reid's "car
availability chart" in the Evolution section.
Q: I did not win the bonus car. Can I buy it somehow?
A: In the few years after the bonus race you can buy the bonus
car from the new car showroom. Sometimes the bonus car will also
appear in the used car market for the next few years. Also see
Jeff Reid's "car availability chart" in the Evolution section.
Q: Can I exit the game without forfeiting the tournament?
A: Yes with one exception. As long as you finished the previous
race, you can exit. Just hit EXIT (lower right) and confirm. Next
time you come back, same tournament should still be selected. Go
ahead and race! EXCEPTION: this does NOT apply to the bonus race.
If you exit the game at the bonus race screen, it’s the same as
if you pushed the “decline” button.
Q: Is there a limit on how many cars you can own?
A: Maximum cars you can own is EIGHTY (81). You can own 80 in the
regular Evolution. That should allow one of each model and
variant, not counting the Factory Driver bonus cars. You can win
the GT1 in the Modern Era Bonus race. There are three Factory
Driver bonus cars, making a total of 84. [Thanks to Jeff Reid for
the correction]
Q: Can I “save” my current progress in case I need to “go back”
in Evolution?
A: Make a copy of the SAVEDATA directory in your Porsche
Unleashed subdirectory.
Q: Do you know of good record times so I can see how good (or
bad) I am?
A: Try here NFS World Records at
http://www.xs4all.nl/~eel/nfswr/porsche/
Q: How do I put my own picture as the driver?
A: [From http://www.higherstakes.com] Take the image you want (in
.jpg or .bmp file format), rename it to yourname.jpg (or .bmp),
yourname being the name of your PU character. Then simply put
that file in you NFS:PU directory. Note: the game will resize the
image as necessary. The only place where you can see that picture
in single player mode is when you select your profile and on your
ID in factory driver I think. However, you and everyone else will
see it every time a multiplayer game loads.
Q: Can I get additional cars?
A: EA has released 4 official downloadable cars for NFS:PU. They
are 1987 959, 1992 928 GTS, 1997 911 GT2, and 1998 911 GT3. You
can download them at http://www.needforspeed.com, then click on
the NFS:PU link, then downloads.
Q: I want MORE cars than that!
A: Try http://www.nfscars.com. However, the file format in NFS:PU
has not been fully decoded so most "new" cars are just variations
of the built-in cars.
Q: I can't buy the downloaded cars in Evolution!
A: You're not supposed to. They don't appear in the "game
economy" unless you hack files.
Q: Where can I find NFS:PU related utilities and hacks?
A: Try http://www.nfscars.com
Q: What happened/is happening to EARacing.com?
A: Originally EA was going to shut down EARacing.com as of
January 8th, 2002. However on January 8th, 2002 they suddenly
reversed their decision and will keep EARacing running, but they
did not promise for how long. Just in case, an alternative NFSPU
and NFS:HS client has been developed at
http://ncop.racerplanet.com
0.3 Terms of Distribution
This document is copyrighted by Kuo-Sheng “Kasey” Chang (c) 2000-
2002, all rights reserved excepted as noted above in the
disclaimer section.
This document is available FREE of charge subjected to the
following conditions:
1) This notice and author's name must accompany all copies of
this document: "Need for Speed: Porsche Unleashed Unofficial
Strategy Guide and FAQ" is copyrighted (c) 2000-2002 by Kasey
K.S. Chang, all rights reserved except as noted in the
disclaimer.”
2) This document must NOT be modified in any form or manner
without prior permission of the author with the following
exception: if you wish to convert this document to a different
file format or archive format, with no change to the content,
then no permission is needed.
2a) In case you can’t read, that means TXT only. No banners, no
HTML borders, no cutting up into multiple pages to get you more
banner hits, and esp. no adding your site name to the site list.
A surrounding frame/toolbar is fine.
3) No charge other than "reasonable" compensation should charged
for its distribution. Free is preferred, of course. Sale of this
information is expressly prohibited. If you see any one selling
this guide, drop me a line at [email protected].
4) If you used material from this, PLEASE ACKNOWLEDGE the source,
else it is plagiarism.
5) The author hereby grants all games-related web sites the right
to archive and link to this document to share among the game
fandom, provided that all above restrictions are followed.
Sidenote: The above conditions are known as a statutory contract.
If you meet them, then you are entitled to the rights I give you
in 5), i.e. archive and display this document on your website. If
you don’t follow them, then you did not meet the statutory
contract conditions, and therefore you have no right to display
this document. If you do so, then you are infringing upon my
copyright. This section was added for any websites that don’t
seem to understand this.
For the gamers: You are under NO obligation to send me ANY
compensation. However, I do ask for a VOLUNTARY contribution of
one (1) US Dollar if you live in the United States, and if you
believe this guide helped your game. If you choose to do so,
please make your US$1.00 check or $1.00 worth of US stamps to
"Kuo-Sheng Chang", and send it to "2220 Turk Blvd. #6, San
Francisco, CA 94118 USA".
If you don't live in the US, please send me some local stamps. I
collect stamps too.
0.4 Distribution
This USG should be available at major game websites, though it’ll
be specifically released to Gamefaqs (http://www.gamefaqs.com).
Always go there for the latest version.
0.5 Other Notes
There is no warranty for this document. After all, it depends on
YOU the player. All I can do is offer some advice.
PLEASE let me know if there's a confusing or missing remark... If
you find an question about this game that is not covered in the
USG, e-mail it to me at [email protected]. I'll try to answer it and
include it in the next update.
0.6 The Author
I am just a game player who decided to write my own FAQs when the
ones I find don’t cover what I want to see. Lots of people like
what I did, so I kept doing it.
Previously, I've written Unofficial Strategy Guides (USGs) for
XCOM, XCOM2:TFTD, Wing Commander 3, Wing Commander 4, Fade to
Black, Spycraft, 688(I) Hunter/Killer, Mechwarrior 3, Mechwarrior
3: Pirate’s Moon Expansion Pack, and many more. You can find
them on http://www.gamefaqs.com.
If you need to write me, send e-mail to [email protected]. And please,
do NOT ask me to send you patches, install codes, or the game
itself. I’ll either ignore you completely or send you a nastygram
depending on my mood. So don’t even bother me, please.
0.7 Disclaimer/ Copyright Information
Need for Speed: Porsche Unleashed is a registered trademark of
Electronic Arts.
Porsche is a registered trademark of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG
This USG is not endorsed or authorized by Electronic Arts or
Porsche.
Special thanks to Jeff Reid, who provided many charts that were
included in this revision. You will also find a lot of his advice
car tuning and tracks.
The information compiled in this USG has been gathered
independently through the author’s efforts except where noted.
0.8 Spoiler Warning
The USG contains spoilers about all factory driver missions as
well as evolution races.
0.9 Release History
1-NOV-2000 Initial release
6-AUG-2001 Fixed a few notes, updated minor info, fixed the
cheat code section
20-SEP-2001 I can’t believe I didn’t fix the James Dean info…
And a few more notes on toe-in and other car adjustments…
13-OCT-2001 I can’t believe there are STILL people asking me
for install codes. Sheesh! Also updated some info about the cars,
a bit on handling, and found two video clips demonstrating the
spinout maneuver.
17-JAN-2002 Added FAQs about limited access to tracks, and
added a few of Jeff Reid's charts and comments about car
adjustments. Added note on demise and revival of EARacing.com
1 Introduction and General Game Info
1.1 NFS History
1.1.1 The first NFS
The first Need for Speed was EA’s response to the successful
Accolade Test Drive series. Co-produced with Road and Track
magazine, it features contemporary super-exotics and experimental
cars. This was before the advent of 3D acceleration, but the
graphics and the driving model paved the way to several sequels.
It included police chase mode, which was revolutionary at the
time.
1.1.2 Need for Speed II and II SE
Need for Speed II dropped the magazine association and went on to
include more exoticars, but dropped the police chase mode.
The Special Edition (SE) added more cars, one track, and included
Voodoo GLIDE 3D acceleration (a first in a car sim). SE also
"improved" part of the tracks.
1.1.3 Need for Speed III: Hot Pursuit
NFS3 brought back the police chase mode, and made it into a game
almost in itself. You can now act as either the chaser or the
chasee, on seven different courses. Unlock different courses and
special bonus cars by winning tournaments and knockouts (the last
place in the race is eliminated).
There are plenty of cars from luxo-sports like Jaguar and Aston-
Martin to exoticars like the Lamborghini and Ferrari. There are
plenty of race modes. The game has full race recording to record
your best passes or crashes. There is no car damage though, and
the driving model is a bit weak. Some of the track and cars must
be unlocked, but the cheat codes were quickly released to enable
those cars and tracks. The tracks are still circuits.
EA also included the car editing tools on the CD, and the fans
quickly responded by editing the included cars and creating new
cars. The tracks are also quickly edited once the file format was
decoded, and fans quickly re-textured and edited the tracks.
1.1.4 Need for Speed: High Stakes
High Stakes is basically what NFS3 should have been, with more
tracks, more cars, and perhaps the most important improvement: a
career mode.
Seven additional tracks have been added for a total of fourteen.
Each course can be raced mirrored, reverse, at night, in bad
weather, etc. Each of the courses is quite different, from
European countryside to high-tech freeways and more. However,
they are still circuits.
More cars have been added. The luxo-sports have been dropped in
favor of quick roadsters like the MB SLK and the BMW Z3. Then we
go up the scale to Camaros, Firebirds, and Corvettes, all the way
up to the MB SLK-GTR and the McLaren F1.
The cars can now be enhanced, though it’s rather generic
enhancements like level 1 upgrade, level 2 upgrade, etc. Each car
can now be damaged, and they affect handling. On the other hand,
the damage is a bit lower than “reality” (smash head-on into a
wall at 100+mph does not instantly destroy your car)..
The most important feature is the career mode, where you start
with a small budget, and attempt to complete the world tour. You
do that by racing the different courses in different conditions
with different cars for different lengths, and occasionally, race
for car ownership i.e. high stakes (if you lose, lose your car.
If you win, you get your opponent’s car). You win prize money,
upgrade and buy more cars, and win more races. If you win certain
tournaments, you’ll receive special bonus cars.
The Hot Pursuit mode has been enhanced to include two additional
chase games per side, for a total of six different hot pursuit
modes. The police roadblocks now include hefty cement blocks
that’ll REALLY stop your car.
A relatively primitive multiplayer component was added, along
with an auto-patch system that checks for and downloads updates
automatically.
High Stakes was known in Europe as "Road Challenge".
1.2 NFS:PU Game Info
1.2.1 Requirements and Recommended Setup
The program runs fine on a Celeron 400, 64 meg RAM, Diamond Viper
550 (Nvidia TNT chipset). On the other hand, occasionally (after
several races) the game runs out of memory and starts swapping to
HD, slowing the frame rate to a crawl. Therefore, 128 megs of RAM
is recommended. If you want higher resolution or more car
details, get better video card and/or faster CPU.
1.2.2 What’s new in NFS: Porsche Unleashed
NFS: Porsche Unleashed, known as NFS: Porsche 2000 in Europe,
focuses only on Porsches. You won’t find any other brand of cars
in this game. It traces Porsche history from the early 356’s down
to the 2000 911’s and Boxsters.
A mission-based game called Factory Driver has been added, where
you must take your car and accomplish specific tasks, such as
timed acrobatic maneuvers, timed slaloms, reach destination under
time limit, and so on.
The career mode, Evolution, takes you from the very first 356 to
the current ’00 911 as you race your way through Porsche history,
eventually driving most models Porsche makes. Start with one car
and work your way to own the whole stable by winning races and
buying/selling cars in the car market. There are also plenty of
parts you can buy to enhance each and every model, all of them
authentic from the Porsche catalog.
The physics model has been completely revamped. A true 4-point
physics system models each wheel independently. The “loose-ness”
of certain Porsche models are modeled expertly, even without
force-feedback. Each car can be individually adjusted.
Rally-style tracks have been added. Instead of endless circuit
tracks in each of the NFS games before, rally tracks start at one
point and end in another. If you crave circuits, you can always
race the Monte Carlo tracks, with 5 variations to choose from.
NFS:PU also includes online racing in beta form as EARacing.com.
It was going to close on January 8th, 2002. However, on the day
before the deadline EA suddenly reversed their decision (probably
after receiving large amount of negative feedback from
disgruntled EARacing users). The technology created for NFS:PU
was incorporated into Motor City Online.
Unfortunately, there is no more Hot Pursuit mode. Police do show
up occasionally in factory driver missions, and there are “codes”
that enable the police in quick race modes.
1.2.3 What’s special about Porsche Unleashed
The four-point (all four wheels) physics model is one of the most
realistic physics model in a car sim yet.
Factory Driver mode is a good way to add new skill sets than just
racing.
Evolution is a lot of fun as a career mode, combining economy and
car collecting.
Lots of fast cars and great graphics.
Rally style tracks (circuits are boring!)
Multiple paths through the same track give you the choice.
1.2.4 What’s not so good about Porsche Unleashed
Its emphasis on Porsche turns off fans that are not so hot about
Porsches. Its exclusive license on Porsche prevented other game
makers from including Porsche in their car sims, such as Sony’s
Gran Turismo 2. (But as those who play GT3 knows, Porsches are
back…)
The cars’ handling has been somewhat exaggerated.
No hot pursuit mode.
Factory Driver assignments sometimes are too unrealistic (would
Porsche really order you to deliver a car in less than 3 minutes
and break every speed limit on the way?)
Money is just a bit too easy to come by in Evolution.
1.3 Motor City Online
Motor City Online is EA’s vision of massive multiplayer car
racing sim, where you join a virtual town of car enthusiasts
driving classic American muscle cars, complete with online
virtual economy. However, it's an online only game with a monthly
fee. It is now available in stores.
1.4 Need for Speed: Hot Pursuit 2
EA has announced this title for the next-gen consoles. It will
probably be ported to the PC later.
2 The Porsches
Here’s a list of the cars you’ll have the opportunity of driving
or owning, dividing into three different eras and four classes in
each era.
Please also see the Evolution section for Jeff Reid's notes on
Evolution.
2.1 The Cars : Classic Era
A coupe will outperform the equivalent targa or convertible. This
is due to the more rigid body structure, which in turn handles
better.
2.1.1 Class 3
Class 3 cars are not much above factory spec. They don’t have
much horsepower, not too much handling. However, they are much
easier to handle than the faster cars.
'50 356 1100 Cabriolet
'50 356 1100 Coupe Ferdinand
The first 356’s doesn’t have enough horsepower to be fast, nor
the handling to be great, but it’s still better than what was
available then. Due to lack of power, it’s NOT as tail-happy
(loose) as later Porsches. The skinny tires are enough to handle
the tiny engines back then if you don’t push the car too far. It
gives warning if it’s about to break loose.
The 356’s worst trait is its tendency to roll over if you push it
too far and got the car sliding sideways. Add rear downforce and
lots of it. To bring the car back under control, let go of the
accelerator, and countersteer slightly until the car straightens
out. Then continue turning and accelerating. Do NOT hit the
brakes. Doing so makes the tail LOOSER as it shifts the weight
forward.
In case you did not know, Ferdinand was named after Dr. Ferdinand
Porsche, founder of the company.
Ferdinand handles slightly better than the Cabriolet (according
to the internal ratings chart) and should probably be your
initial choice.
'51 356 1300 Cabriolet
'51 356 1300 Coupe
'52 356 1500 Cabriolet
'52 356 1500 Coupe
'53 356 1500 Super Cabriolet
'53 356 1500 Super Coupe
'54 356 1300 Super Cabriolet
'54 356 1300 Super Coupe
These cars became available between 1950 and 1956. You can find
these on the used car market in 1956. If you want them, get them
now. They start to disappear from "new cars" in 1960, and appear
only rarely in the "used car" lot in the 1960’s. They disappear
almost completely by 1982.
'56 356 A 1300 Super Cabriolet
'56 356 A 1300 Super Coupe
'56 356 A 1600 Cabriolet
'56 356 A 1600 Coupe
'56 356 A 1600 Super Cabriolet
'56 356 A 1600 Super Coupe
'56 356 A 1600 Speedster
'56 356 A 1600 Super Speedster
'56 356 A 1300 Cabriolet
'56 356 A 1300 Coupe
'59 356 A 1600 Convertible D
'59 356 A 1600 Super Convertible D
The 356 A series are minor improvements over the existing models,
which didn’t change much. Performance parts such as bigger
carburetor, performance intake and exhaust, and sports springs
and racing shocks became available at this time. The bigger
engines improve performance, but also make the tail a bit looser.
The 356A’s disappear by 1989. After that you’ll only see 356B’s.
2.1.2 Class 2
'60 356 B 1600 Roadster
'60 356 B 1600 Hardtop
'60 356 B 1600 Cabriolet
'60 356 B 1600 Coupe
'60 356 B 1600 Super Cabriolet
'60 356 B 1600 Super Coupe
'60 356 B 1600 Super Roadster
'60 356 B 1600 Super Hardtop
'60 356 B 1600 Super 90 Cabriolet
'60 356 B 1600 Super 90 Coupe
'60 356 B 1600 Super 90 Hardtop
'60 356 B 1600 Super 90 Roadster
The 356B’s adds better carburetor and better fuel control, bigger
engine, with improved suspension and slight revision of the body
for even better performance. Of all these cars, the Super 90’s
perform the best, due to the enhanced engines.
Some models of these 12 may not be readily available. You’ll have
to look for them.
2.1.3 Class 1
'62 356 B 2000 GS Carrera 2
This is the fastest 356, period. This car will outpace just about
anything in the classic era except maybe a 911 or 911 S. The
Carrera 2 does NOT share the 2.0L engine with the 911. That was a
common misconception (including me, for a while).
'65 911 Coupe
'67 911 S Targa
'67 911 S Coupe
'67 911 Targa
The early 911’s are a bit light and not really enough horsepower.
This makes their “looseness” only come out in the corners. Learn
to approach each corner correctly and countersteer.
(A little Porsche history… There’s actually a 912, which is
really a 911 with a smaller engine. While not quite as classic as
911, it’s still a classic collector’s car.)
2.1.4 Race Class
'56 550 A Spyder (Classic Era Bonus Car)
Actually a pretty BAD car compared to a loaded Class 1 like a
356B GS Carrera 2 or even a 911S, 550’s best trait is it is NOT
loose. The 550 Spyder mainly has classic looks and the racing
setup (including racing transmission with adjustable gear
ratios). It handles quite well for a car that old. On the other
hand, you can go faster with a 911 S in the corners due to better
handling. If you want to race this car, tune the gears for a bit
more speed in the corners.
James Dean, American idol, actor, and racecar driver, died in a
550 Spyder in 1955. Before that he won several races in a 550
Spyder. He also owned a 356B.
2.2 The Cars : Golden Era
2.2.1 Class 3
'72 911 S 2.4 Targa
'72 911 S 2.4 Coupe
The 911’s with the 2.4 engine perform better than their
predecessors. With more power, the tail is getting looser. Add
the ducktail to keep it under control.
'70 914/4 1.7
'73 914/4 2.0
'74 914/4 1.8
The 914 economy Porsches need all the power upgrades they can
get. They are quite light and not that loose in the corners. They
are a lot like the very early 356’s. These cars aren’t that fast
so you need to maintain your speed in the corners to win.
'82 944 Coupe
'87 944 S Coupe
The 944, being front-engined, is not quite as nimble as the
911’s, but is much more forgiving. S version has better
suspension and more rigid body for better handling. The large
engine bay allows installation of aftermarket superchargers,
which add lots of horsepower.
A 944 with top-of-the-line parts should use setup of 15% ride
height, 80% stiffness, 30% travel, 45 tire pressure front and
rear, and no change in downforce. This setup is sufficient to
outturn the competition, as long as you don’t do it TOO fast. If
you do approach too fast, use the brakes and even the handbrakes.
The car is very forgiving compared to the 911s.
The best of Class 3 is probably the 944 S or the 911 S 2.4,
depending on racing style and availability. I’d race the 944 S as
it’s easier to drive, though the 911 S may be a little faster.
2.2.2 Class 2
'73 911 Carrera RS 2.7 Coupe
'73 911 Carrera RS 2.7 Coupe (Factory Driver Bonus Car)
Probably the most hard-to-handle Porsche, the RS 2.7’s have
enough horsepower to be VERY loose around the corners. It has
factory-standard ducktail, but even that may not be enough.
Adjust your downforce carefully.
The Bonus car does not have any advantages over the regular
version.
'88 944 Turbo S Coupe
Ah, the turbo upgrade to the 944 S… Not quite as classic as 911,
but powerful nonetheless. It’s fast, but still not quite as
nimble as the 911 Carrera RS 2.7.
2.2.3 Class 1
'75 911 Turbo 3.0 Coupe (930)
'78 911 Turbo 3.3 Coupe (930)
The Turbo 911’s gets improved and turbo-charged engines. While
tail happy, the whaletail upgrade keeps that under control.
Still, treat this like the Carrera RS, countersteer into the turn
to keep it under control.
Some people reported that whaletail seem to slow the car down.
Remember to adjust your downforce settings after getting the
whaletail.
'87 959
The 959 is a download car. You can’t buy it in the game economy.
It has 4-wheel drive (a first), LeMans-inspired twin-turbo
engine, computer traction control, and much more. It is just as
fast as one of the modern (late 90’s) 911’s with a MUCH BIGGER
engine.
In real-life, you launch the 959 by revving the engine to 7000
RPM, then drop the clutch! If you try this with a non-Porsche
you’ll probably destroy the gearbox.
2.2.4 Race Class
'78 935/78 Coupe "Moby Dick" (Golden Era Bonus Car)
The Moby Dick is a very rare car. If you can win or buy one, do
so immediately. It commands a HUGE price (2 million) when you
finish the modern era. It’s not that fast though, with only a 4-
gear gearbox. If you want to race it, tune the gears. It’s
basically a 935 with a huge body kit.
2.3 The Cars : Modern Era
2.3.1 Class 3
'89 911 Carrera 4 Coupe (964)
'90 911 Carrera 2 Targa (964)
'90 911 Carrera 4 Targa (964)
'90 911 Carrera 4 Cabriolet (964)
'90 911 Carrera 2 Coupe (964)
'90 911 Carrera 2 Cabriolet (964)
Carrera 4’s are 4-wheel drive, which helps reduce the tail-
happiness and improves handling. However, 4WD also adds a bit of
weight. The 964’s gets the auto spoiler (it pops up when you
exceed 40 kph), though you can replace that with a whaletail.
'89 944 S2 Cabriolet
'91 944 Turbo Cabriolet
Further improved 944’s are somewhat better handling, but not by
much.
'97 Boxster (Factory Driver Bonus Car)
'97 Boxster
'00 Boxster S
Boxster is a Porsche roadster. Use the hardtop config to get the
best frame rigidity. While not as fast as the 911’s, they are a
lot of fun. Most notable feature is one HUGE exhaust in the tail.
Boxster S has bigger 3.2L engine and better handling. Boxster has
a rear spoiler, though it’s well hidden and only deploys when the
speed exceeds 40 mph, similar to the 911 (996).
The best Class 3 Modern car is the 911 Carrera 4 Coupe. The rigid
structure and AWD gives it the edge over even the 944 S2.
2.3.2 Class 2
'91 911 Turbo 3.3 Coupe (964)
'93 911 Turbo 3.6 Coupe (964)
The next generation 911’s aren’t that much of an improvement over
the Class 3 911’s, except for the turbo engines. Handling gets
better though.
'92 928 GTS
Another download-only car, it’s used in the World GT races. GTS
being the smallest (almost factory) class. It’s front-engined
like the 944.
'94 911 Carrera Cabriolet (993)
'94 911 Carrera Coupe (993)
'95 911 Carrera 4 Coupe (993)
'95 911 Carrera 4 Cabriolet (993)
'96 911 Carrera Targa (993)
'96 911 Carrera 4S Coupe (993)
'96 911 Carrera Coupe (993)
'96 911 Carrera 4 Coupe (993)
'97 911 Carrera S 3.6 Coupe (993)
The various versions of 993 series 911s are improved, reducing
the “loose-ness” of the chassis. However, it can still lose
traction if you push it too far. Adding the GT2 tail (twin
spoiler) can help. Best in the class would be the Carrera 4 Coupe
(’96 version).
Somehow, the 4S version handles a little worse, at least
according to the car compare list! Jeff Reid said this is a
program error. The 4S should be the fastest in the class.
'98 911 Carrera 3.4 Cabriolet (996)
'98 911 Carrera 3.4 Coupe (996)
'99 911 Carrera 4 Cabriolet (996)
'99 911 Carrera 4 Coupe (996)
The 996 series 911’s are fast… really fast, and the Carrera 4
gets 4-wheel drive. The 996 series seems to be perfectly
balanced, with NO loose-ness in the tail unless you push the car
excessively. The Coupe version handles better due to the tighter
chasis.
2.3.3 Class 1
'95 911 Turbo 3.6 Coupe (993)
The fastest 993 is somewhat tail-happy. If you can control it,
it’s VERY fast. Whether it’s faster than the 996 depends on your
driving style. The 993 is a bit nimbler, while the 996 has higher
top speed and acceleration.
'00 911 Turbo (996)
'00 911 Turbo (996) (Factory Driver Bonus Car)
The 996 is almost perfectly balanced. If you can’t make it
through the turn, you really are moving too fast. Unless you
pushed the car too far, tail won’t get loose. This car is more
likely to understeer than oversteer. The rear spoiler is almost
invisible, and pops out only when the speed is above 40 mph. Even
when deployed, it’s still quite small.
2.3.4 Race Class
'97 911 GT2 race version
'98 911 GT3 Cup
These two cars are download cars. You can’t buy them. They have
multi-stage turbochargers, and are used in World Sports Car GT
endurance races (similar to LeMans, but with less modified cars).
'98 911 GT1 race version (Modern Era Bonus Car)
The GT1 gets full bodywork like LeMans racers. It’s very fast,
and it really sticks to the road. Though the extra length makes
it less nimble. On tight corners you may have to tap the
handbrakes to bring the nose around. You can win this with the
bonus race, or you can buy it as in the "club races" era.
3 The Parts Bin
You can get a variety of parts to customize your Porsches, from
cosmetic parts like bumpers and rims, to engine enhancements like
performance exhaust and turbocharger, to different tires, shocks,
brakes, and more. Here’s how different parts affect the
performance of your car.
If you can’t afford all the upgrades, perhaps you should try to
make some more money first via car fixing, then come back and buy
some. Adding upgrades piecemeal is a waste of money.
3.1 Flywheel
The flywheel is basically a “momentum” reservoir. Once you spun
it up, it keeps the RPMs up. A lighter flywheel improves
acceleration as it takes less power to spin up. On the other
hand, it also preserves less momentum. A heavier flywheel
maintains your forward momentum when you go uphill.
Conclusion: use the lightest flywheel you can get. The
acceleration gain outweighs the loss of uphill power in most
situations.
3.2 Engine Enhancements
The different manifolds/intakes, turbocharger/supercharger kits,
exhausts, ECU upgrade, throttle body, injector and/or carburetor,
etc. all perform the same purpose: add horsepower to the engine,
by enriching the fuel mixture and optimizing the power
production.
Remember that some cars come with bigger engines. Other cars
(esp. early models) can have the bigger engine added if they
become available.
Conclusion: add the best the money can buy and skip the rest.
3.3 Transmission / Gearbox
There are five kinds of gearboxes. Regular, close-ratio (higher
mid-band acceleration but maybe lower top speed and lower initial
acceleration), low speed (high acceleration but lower top speed),
high speed (lower acceleration but high top speed), and racing
(each gear is independently adjustable). Not all gearboxes are
available for all vehicles. The racing gearbox can only be used
in race class vehicles.
Which gearbox should you use? Fit the gearbox to the task. On a
high-speed course like Autobahn or Zone Industrielle, you want
the high-speed gearbox to get the most speed out of the straight
sections and the fast corners. On a lower speed course like Alps
or Corsica, where you hardly ever reach top speed due to all the
curves, use the low-speed or close-ratio gearbox to gain time in
the corners.
On a course with both high and low speed sections, use the
regular gearbox as the best compromise.
The quickshifter basically allows more precise gear switching by
shortening the shift lever. If the quickshifter is available,
definitely get it.
Conclusion: depends on the course.
How to tune the racing transmission to each course is a different
topic altogether. Please see 4.3.7 for Jeff Reid's advice on how
to tune gear ratios.
3.4 Spoilers and Bumpers
Most of the bumpers are decoration only, though the more
expensive ones have a slight aerodynamic effect that helps to
keep you on the road, and some are slightly lighter.
Spoilers, on the other hand, do have a positive effect on your
high-speed handling by pushing your tail down, at the price of
more friction. Some Porsche models have special spoilers. The old
911’s have “ducktail”, while the early turbo 911’s have the
“whaletail”. The modern 911’s get the GT2 tail. Some reported
that these really slow down the car, so try them before you leave
them on.
Conclusion: upgrade these last. If you do, go all out and get the
best.
3.5 Springs and Shocks
In general, the harder the shocks and springs, the more
responsive the car, but harder the ride, and may cause you to
lose traction as the wheel bounce OFF the ground. Most are
adjustable.
Conclusion: just get the most expensive available.
3.6 Tires
There are only three kinds of tires in PU: regular/stock tires,
slicks, and rain tires.
Regular tires are all-season all-around performance tires. They
provide decent traction in all environments, including asphalt,
mud, grass, and even a bit of rain and snow.
Slicks provide maximum traction on asphalt and other flat
surfaces, but loses traction quickly when off road. Perfect for
racing at Monte Carlo, and roads where you have plenty of tarmac
to run on. Remember NOT to take those non-road shortcuts when you
have slicks on.
Rain tires are optimized for traction during rain and snow
conditions, making them perfect for Autobahn and Alps tracks.
They have more rolling resistance and less traction than the
other two types of tires on dry ground.
Conclusion: use the right tool for the job.
3.7 Rims
Rims are decoration only. All available rims are real authentic
Porsche rims. There’s 4 Porsches around my house and I’ve seen
them with these rims.
Conclusion: use whichever looks good.
3.8 Weight Reduction
Less weight is always good, as it helps your acceleration, albeit
just slightly. The more expensive it is (carbon fiber vs.
fiberglass), the lighter it is. Some of the more expensive
bumpers are also slightly lighter.
Conclusion: buy the most expensive stuff available.
3.9 Sway bars
Also known as anti-roll bars or torsion bars, there are actually
two bars: one between the front wheels, and one between the rear
wheels. The stiffer the bar, the less your car body will roll
when taking a turn, and thus keep more rubber on the road (and
more traction and all that). Of course, in NFS:PU you only get
one.
Conclusion: get the most expensive / stiffest you can get
3.10 Brakes
Obvious use of stopping power… Most courses require you to use
the brakes quite a bit. After all, “body braking” is bad both for
looks and your virtual pocketbook (repair costs).
Conclusion: get the best money can buy, but this can wait till
the end.
4 Car Tuning
Why would you tune a car? To give it better handling, of course.
Let’s discuss first the physics of car handling, then a bit on
what to adjust, and finally how each parameter affects handling.
First tip, go into options, and set the map mode to 75% of normal
size. That gives you a good look at the surrounding, even at high
speed, so you can see the upcoming curves and prepare for them.
The “normal” size is just too close to see enough of the track to
anticipate turns.
4.1 The Physics of Handling
To understand handling, we need to explain traction. To explain
traction, we need to explain weight and friction.
Basically, friction is defined as the force pushing two surfaces
together multiplied by a friction coefficient (i.e. a number that
depends on which two surfaces are involved). For tires, you’re
looking at the weight, but not the WHOLE weight of the car, just
a portion of it, because the weight moves around a bit as the car
moves.
4.1.1 Weight Transfer
You may not think about it, but the weight of the car moves quite
a bit while you drive.
When you accelerate, the weight moves backwards so more of it
rests on the rear wheels. Conversely, when you brake, the weight
moves forward toward the front wheels. When you turn, the outside
wheels take more weight than the inside.
Friction is simply weight (downward force) multiplied by a
friction coefficient. There’s only so much weight in a car. If
one wheel gets more weight, the other three then must get less.
Therefore, the weight transfer affects friction/traction of all
four wheels. The more weight your car has, the less the
acceleration, so a car’s setup is a compromise between traction
and speed.
4.1.2 Now, the suspension system…
In general, stiffer springs and shocks give you a car that
handles great when going straight, but hard to corner. The
stiffer shocks “respond” faster to the road condition, but the
stiffer shocks also tend to receive “more” of the weight, cutting
traction elsewhere. If you have really hard shocks the wheel may
even leave the ground as it can't react fast enough to the road
surface.
Conversely, softer shocks give you better control in the corners,
but slower straight-aways. Softer shocks respond slower to the
road, but it dampens the weight transfer, keeping traction even.
You, as the car tuner, have to tune the car to the track. Some
tracks require softer shocks to take the corners easier or to
handle the rough terrain. Other tracks with high-speed straights
and corners should have stiffer shocks for better handling.
The general motto is set “the stiffest shocks you can handle”.
Stiff shocks, while very responsive, can cause the car to be a
bit too eager, and hard to corner.
4.1.3 Example: Why you should not hit the brakes while
turning
As we’ve explained earlier, hitting the brakes causes the weight
to transfer forward to the front wheels.
If a car is already “loose” to start with, the rear wheels are
JUST hanging on. If you do a weight transfer forward, the rear
wheels will have decreased traction, making the tail looser.
To recover, stop braking, which will make the car even and put a
bit of the weight to the rear wheels, and hopefully regain
traction.
4.2 The Problems of Handling
Handling problems usually fall into oversteer or understeer.
4.2.1 Oversteer
Oversteer, also known as “loose”, means you turned, but the car
turned further than you intend to do. This is caused by a loss of
traction in the rear wheels.
When you turn, the weight transfers to the outside wheels, esp.
the outside front wheel (as you lose speed in a corner). That may
be enough to break loose the tail.
The fix is to increase rear traction by increasing rear
downforce, decrease rear tire pressure, move brake balance
rearward, decrease shock stiffness, or increase shock travel.
4.2.2 Understeer
Understeer, also known as “push”, means you turned, but the car
does not turn enough. This is caused by loss of traction in the
front wheels.
The fix is to increase traction in the front by increase toe-in
(slightly), increase front downforce, decrease front tire
pressure, decrease shock stiffness, increase shock travel, and so
on.
4.2.3 Achieving the balance
If you approach the corner too fast, no amount of tuning will
save you from hitting the outside wall. If you’re sure that your
approach speed is correct, then it’s time to tune the car.
Ideally, you want your car to neither push nor loose when going
around the corner at the speed of your choosing. You can either
make one end tighter or make the other end a little looser to
achieve the balance.
Most drivers want a slightly “pushy” car. Most cars on the road
tend to understeer, since it’s easier to control. Stop understeer
by slowing down and add more weight to the front wheels.
Conversely, you may want the car to be just slightly loose at the
corners. Being loose actually makes the car more manueverable,
though it’s possible to lose control. A slightly loose car can
just “glide” around the corner, maintaining a higher cornering
speed, but it’s not easy to keep it right on the edge.
4.3 What to adjust and how much
Note: some of the terms here are not strictly correct racing
terms. Toe in and camber are actually two different measurements,
but for game’s sake, we’ll discuss them as if they are the same.
4.3.1 Steering – Toe in
Toe-in is exactly what it sounds like. It measures how far the
tires are pointing inward (like your toes).
While common sense would dictate that zero toe-in is what you
want, you actually do want some toe-in, at least on the front-
end. First, toe-in keeps your car straight on the road. Due to
the natural tolerances and flexing, tires NEVER have exact toe-
in. By adding slight toe-in, your car will go naturally straight
due to the slight “inward” forces from the tires. You want the
toe-in in this case to be large enough to keep your car straight,
yet small enough to not decrease traction. Conversely, toe-out
(negative toe-in) will cause the car to be “touchy” and unstable
going down the straights.
Second, toe-in, in a turn, controls the “slip angle”, the
difference between the tire’s movement direction vs. tire’s
pointing direction. Toe-in will increase oversteer since your
outside tire is pointing FURTHER than your steering, and your
inside tire, with huge slip angle, will tend to slip and decrease
traction, thus more oversteer. Conversely, toe-out will induce
UNDERSTEER.
Previously I stated Toe-in is same as camber. This is NOT
correct.
My Conclusion: Toe-in is a valuable adjustment that is hard to
understand. Make very minor adjustments only, and determine what
behavior you’re trying to induce first.
Jeff's Conclusion: If game pad or keyboard used, set toe-in to
1/4 from left instead of all the way right. Highest cornering
speeds appear to occur with toe-in all the way right, about 1/2
throttle, and 1/3rd of full steering. Toe in will also allow full
throttle with heavy steering, but I don't think this is as fast.
[KC's note: well, that just shows how flawed this physics model
is. :-) ]
4.3.2 Brake Balance
This is also known as “brake bias”. Most cars should have a rear
brake bias, which allows the rear wheels to get more brake
pressure. As the car brakes and weight shifts forward, the bias
will balance out to achieve optimum stopping distance.
If you push the brake bias forward, the rear of the car may come
loose during braking.
Keep the bias in the middle or a half way to the rear is good
unless you’re trying to FORCE a loose tail while braking. That is
usually a bad idea.
4.3.3 Tire Pressure
PU’s tire pressure effects are vastly simplified. If you want
hard handling, add more pressure. If you want more traction,
decrease pressure. Most people keep them at the default or go
all the way up to 45 psi. The car does seem to handle a little
better at 45 psi tire pressure.
Jeff Reid adds Set the rear tire slightly lower (like 43) for
more rear traction. Some cars may handle better with a SLIGHT
decrease of front tire pressure. The '78 911, for example,
handles better with 45/40. Reducing back tire pressure seems have
the same effect as increasing front downforce.
4.3.4 Shocks - Ride Height
In general, the lower the ride height, the less chassis roll and
better response. However, this causes problems when you hit a
bump. A bump that you could have handled with normal ride height
(and kept the wheels on the ground) would cause your car to get
some air, where you can’t steer or accelerate or brake!
Conclusion: depends on the track’s number of bumps. If most of
the track is flat, set to as low as possible. On the courses with
big bumps, set them higher. Schwartzwald has some big bumps.
Jeff's Conclusion: Just set it to the lowest there is.
4.3.5 Shocks - Stiffness
Stiff shocks give better handling, but less traction overall. On
big bumps, the stiffness may cause the wheel to leave the road as
it transfers most of the shock to you instead of absorbing some.
Stiff shocks also tend to cause more weight transfer.
Conclusion: set to the stiffest setting that you can handle,
except on the courses with big bumps.
Jeff's Conclusion: Just set it to the stiffest there is.
4.3.6 Shocks - Travel
This is a measure of how far can the shock compresses. Lower
amount of travel means less body roll. On the other hand, set it
too low and the shocks can hit bottom, causing you to feel most
of the jolt, and the wheel can bounce off the pavement.
Conclusion: leave this one alone unless you’re out of things to
adjust. Half way or 25% is good. Basically, this one is as low as
you can handle.
Jeff's Conclusion: Just set it to the HIGHEST there is. (Ed.--
Yes, I know, this is counter-intuitive, but give it a try!)
4.3.7 Gear Ratio
If you have a racing transmission in your car (only race class
cars), you can tune the individual gears. This can help you
achieve better acceleration, or to optimize the power band for
the driving conditions.
Most cars have optimum power band not too far from redline.
Monitor your engine RPMs as you go around the course. If your
RPMs fall way beyond that point, consider adjusting the gear it
was in. Also, monitor the RPM’s when you race. If consistently
fall below redline, it may be time to use a taller gearbox (like
close-ratio or low speed).
Note from Jeff Reid: "There's a weird bug in NFS:PU that makes
the race cars faster. By setting top gear and final offset to the
max negative values, the race cars go faster, but renders top
gear useless by making it too tall. In the case of the GT1,
you're left with 5 gears.
These are the gear settings I use with a manual tranny
1st: -0.05 2nd: -0.10 3rd: -0.10 4th: -0.05 5th: 0.00 6th: -0.25
final -0.50
for an auto(matic transmission), try these
1st: -0.10 2nd: -0.15 3rd: -0.15 4th: -0.10 5th: -0.05 6th: -0.25
final -0.50"
4.3.8 Downforce, front and back
Some cars have adjustable spoilers, which can help add some
downforce to help in traction, at the expense of more air
resistance (thus lower top speed).
The settings in NFS seem to be reversed. If you decrease the
setting, the downforce increases.
On slower tracks, you aren't moving very fast. Therefore
downforce is not that important. Set downforce to 0 (100%) and
see if you can still handle the car. If you can't, increase
downforce until you can handle it.
Jeff's Conclusion: Set downforce in 1F:3R ratio.
4.3.9 Tires
I suggest using the right tires for the right tracks. On the
tracks with a bit of mud, you may need regular tires. On rainy
and snowy tracks like Alps and Autobahn, use rain tires.
Otherwise, use slicks.
Jeff Reid suggests using slicks on ALL tracks. His reasoning is
that you lose more time on the fast sections with the regular or
rain tires than you can make on the slower sections that you need
the tires for.
If you really know your car, try Jeff's suggestion. If you can't
handle the car on the slippery tracks like Alps or Autobahn, then
try regular or rain tires.
4.4 Tuning tricks from Jeff Reid's Toolbox
On cars that oversteer really badly, set front downforce to zero,
and reduce front tire pressure, for example, the 1978 911, set
pressure to 45/40 and it behaves itself.
Using a manual tranny allows you to brake unrealistically fast,
by downshifting early (don't do this in a corner as car will
spin).
My latest recommended setup is to have tire pressures set to
45/45, and downforce ratio about 3 to 1, for example, 99/33 or
81/27. Reducing rear tire pressure has similar effect to
increasing
front downforce. At Alps, run pressure at 45/45 and front
downforce to 0 to avoid spinning in the snow.
5 Your opponents: the AI drivers
5.1 The breakdown
In a tournament or a club race, you usually race against 7 other
cars.
Two of the seven are aces. They pick the best cars from the
eligible ones, and they have all the enhancements. They also
rarely if ever make mistakes. However, they CAN make mistakes,
and you can always “help” them make some. One of them would be
better than the other. In most cases, one of them would be
Parise, and the other Dylan.
Two of the seven are fodder. They pick the worst cars and drive
like old ladies.
The other three are average. They have pretty good cars, but not
necessarily the best, and maybe not the best parts if they get
good cars. Their driving skills are also average.
The breakdown is designed so if you drive well, you should make
it to the top three with no problem. Only if you drive poorly
will you fail to advance to the next tournament.
5.2 AI tendencies
AI cars tend to take corners conservatively, esp. the slower
cars. They do not want any tire skidding. You should know the
approach speed for each corner by now for each car and how to get
the tail loose just enough to go around the corner. Therefore you
should have the advantage.
AI cars also tend to avoid damage to the extent to avoiding you
if possible. You can use this to force them off the road or cut
in front of them to slow them down.
AI cars avoid damage, so if you are willing to accept some damage
as you take a corner a bit fast so that you slide into the
outside wall, you can usually advance several places, esp. around
really slow corners, such as a switchback or a chicane.
AI cars react very quickly to skidding. Only in extreme
situations (like too much air or the car was pushed sideways)
will AI car lose control.
AI cars have problem coping with jumps. At Normandie they often
lose control or flip the car when they take those hills at high
speed.
AI also is very quick to reset their cars if they get into
trouble, such as getting extended air or get their cars sideways
or flipped. They don’t seem to have the two-second wait period
after reset before they can start, unlike you.
AI does not handle snow driving very well. If you have rain tires
and AWD, you should be able to beat all opponents in Alps if you
don’t crash. That usually means you need to get out front.
If you use high-speed gearbox, then all AI seem to use high-speed
gearbox. Otherwise, AI cars sometimes use low-speed gearbox or
close-ratio gearbox, so they will get a jump on you on
acceleration if you use the regular gearbox. If you don’t achieve
top speed on this track, consider using close-ratio or low-speed
gearbox yourself.
5.3 Police Behavior
You hardly ever see police cars around the different courses, but
they do show up, esp. in factory driver assignments.
Zone Industrielle has the worst police concentration. Two police
cars are there full time, and their 911s are INCREDIBLY fast,
beating your top speed even with the high-speed gearbox. Their
high speed on the other hand means they usually cause accidents,
either by running into you or other cars on the road. They also
seem to take some turns on two wheels only!
To avoid the police cars, you should take the shortcuts. Zone has
two shortcuts, at least one of which will avoid the local police
patrol.
The police in NFS:PU attempt to knock you off the road instead of
issuing tickets. Avoid the charge to let the cop get in front of
you, then find a good spot to pass the police car. Hopefully the
police car will crash into one of the traffic cars while
attempting to pass and lose you.
Also see traffic behavior below when they encounter police.
5.4 Traffic Behavior
You will see traffic cars on test drives, the factory driver
assignments that involves public road, and some classic club
races.
The traffic cars move at a very sedate speed, no more than the
speed limit. You’ll blow right by them if you drive at racing
speeds. If you driving in the incoming lane, they’ll honk, but
otherwise, they will just keep going and ignore you completely.
In fact, they’ll keep going even if you (or your fellow racers)
crash into them.
If there’s a police with sirens on approaching, all traffic will
slow down and turn off to their side of the road. You should stay
in the middle of the road to avoid running into any one trying to
avoid the police. You can use this against the police.
5.5 Playing Dirty
Here are some dirty tricks to use against AI cars.
The spinout maneuver: use against a car next to you
Drop back half a car-length, so your hood is right at about his
rear tires. Now turn INTO him and keep accelerating. If you do it
just right you’ll push his tail around and he’ll slide off your
other side heading the wrong way. If there’s a lot of cars behind
you, don’t be surprised if you cause a chain reaction!
FYI… Real cops use this trick on suspects they need to remove
from the road. Watch it being done on a suspect car at this URL
(you’ll need RealPlayer or Windows Media Player). Look for the
spinout maneuver near the end when the Crown Vic interceptor
bumps the pickup off the road.
http://www.cops.com/pages/opening_shots_great_moment.html
Or try this one, when they spin a sedan off the road…
http://www.cops.com/pages/opening_shots_az.html
The slide cushion maneuver: use in corners
When taking a corner with other cars in front, check if there’s
room inside. If there is, then definitely cut inside. Try to time
yourself so you hit the apex right when you’re next to that car.
If you slide out, your tail should bump that car and you’ll stay
in control.
You can use this maneuver with no other car if you take the
outside line in a curve and there’s nice wall there to keep you
on the road. You’ll take damage, but it’s better than spinning
out.
Please note though that this may not always work. If you fail,
you may end up spinning yourself out of the race.
Jeff Reid suggests "As a car passes you, you swerve hard to in
front of him so his car's front end hits the side of your car.
This usually makes trailing car spin sideways and spins the
swerving car back to straight again. If the swerver misses,
though, he ends up sideways. This is why it's better to stay
directly behind, and/or fake a pass either brake or switch sides
that you pass on."
In general, you should spend your attention racing instead of
trying to spin the other guy out.
6 The Courses
Here’s some notes on the courses and suggested generic settings.
You’ll need to customize this a bit to fit individual cars, but
they should work for most cars.
The setting slider reads left as 0% and right as 100%. These are
pretty conservative settings as they are designed to let the car
understeer. If you prefer a looser car, add 10 to the rear
downforce settings. You may need a bit more if the car is really
stable like the 911 (996) Turbo.
You can and SHOULD practice on each of the tracks before you race
on them, and I do not mean test drive. You can test drive too,
but you’ll run into traffic, even on Monte Carlo tracks! Instead,
I mean the PRACTICE button when you’re about to race the
tournament.
You should adjust your gear ratios (if possible) for each and
every track you race for optimum times. Some tracks are fast,
some tracks are slow with more corners.
Please also note that you do NOT have access to the full list of
tracks initially. You will need to progress in Evolution to
unlock the other tracks.
Jeff Reid adds the following tip: On tracks with rails and
tunnels, bouncing side or rear end of car off a rail/wall is
often the fastest way. Use the parking brake to brake the tail
loose. Avoid letting front-end damage as this slows down car a
lot.
6.1 Schwartzwald
Grass, gravel, dirt, and some mud, this course is marked by a lot
of walls on the side and several 180 curves. Definitely use stock
tires on this course, slicks are a distant second.
There’s one section where you can cut through the grass next to
the hut and the tree. Just remember that you’ll need stock tires
to drive on grass, as you’ll need to turn a little.
The alternate path is not that much shorter, though it does seem
a little shorter (albeit with more curves) and muddier. Doesn’t
matter which one you take if you have stock tires.
No shortcuts worth mentioning on this track.
Jeff Reid adds: If not driving GT1, tap brakes on the small humps
to avoid air. At the fork, take the dirt path.
6.2 Pyrenees
Pyrenees is a fast track with quite a few smooth curves. Be
careful around the heavy curves.
Western split is debatable. While shorter, it also has more
curves. If you have slicks, skip it and just take that wide curve
at high speed. If you have stock tires on you may be able to gain
a second by taking the shorter/curvier route.
Cut wide under the aqueduct if you have stock tires on. If you
have slicks, you may want to stay on the road.
Be careful about using too much of the shoulders. Sometimes a
little piece of the hill just extends into the shoulder. Hit that
at high speed, and you’ll be really flying.
Jeff Reid adds: Take the OUTSIDE (off the road) through large
archway. Don't take dirt path unless you're good at bouncing off
walls using handbrake.
6.3 Cote d’Azur
There are no shortcuts on this course. It’s high speed all the
way.
There is one short alternate path inside the town, and you can
take a detour down into the docks, but those are not really that
short. May as well stick to the main road. The dock route is
worth taking, because you’ll need to slow down for the main road,
and the dock route let’s you keep a little more speed.
The curves are deceptively simple, don’t be fooled. Take them too
fast and you will slide into the outside wall. Slow down
properly.
Jeff Reid adds: Fowards, taking left fork through town a tad
quicker. Backwards, take the pier run.
6.4 Alps
Snowy terrain tests your low-traction handling.
The switchback is very dangerous to loose cars. Be extra careful
and don’t JAM on the throttle. Use several quick taps. You’ll
likely spin out if you try to burn rubber. Slow way down, get
your nose around, THEN accelerate. You don’t really want to go
around those switchbacks on two wheels only, as it’s QUITE
possible to flip the car that way!
If you have rain tires, you can try taking shortcut through the
snow. Some have reported cutting underneath the hovering
helicopter, through the icy lake, etc. On the other hand, with
rain tires, you can drive on the road at a very decent speed,
something the AI cars don’t do in the snow. They don’t seem to
ever use rain tires!
The two routes on the western split are almost equal, though I
prefer the southern route. While it has more curves, there’s
enough room on the shoulders to allow you take them almost as a
straight.
Jeff Reid adds: Hit the brakes early for the first hairpin, most
wait too late. For fast cars, hit brakes at the first shadow on
the road or you'll go too fast into the corner. After snowy chute
section, car can go straight across snowy area to get back onto
road in the helicopter area. Take the right fork near the end.
GT1 can be good here, better at hairpins (with manual tranny)
since it won't roll as easy, harder to control in the snow (shift
up an extra gear), but faster on final straight as it won't go
airborne like 911.
6.5 Autobahn
Speed course with occasional rain, this course provides a unique
challenge.
The interchanges are dangerous if you do not slow to the
appropriate cornering speed. Try the outside merge instead of the
inside. It’s slightly safer. If you take the inside lane, don’t
scrape the outside wall. Right at the end there’s a sign jutting
into the road. If you hit it, you’ll probably flip the car.
There’s one lane at the tollbooths that are wider than the
others.
At the split tunnel on the east side, the fastest way through is
go in on the right side. Use the gap between the poles to cut
into the left side and take the left tunnel. As the two sides
merge use the gap again to cut into the right side, then use the
room to take the last corner left wide.
Jeff Reid adds: Autobahn fwd: For most cars, skip first tunnel,
take second tunnel. For slow cars or backwards, skip both
tunnels. GT1 is fastest here.
6.6 Auvergne
Driving in town with three paths can be tricky. There are
actually more hidden tunnels and such in town that’s not on the
map. For racing purposes the three routes are about equal. The
central route is a little shorter, but also narrower.
Be very careful when maneuvering in the tight streets. Slamming
into a house will cause major damage to your car. Only pass when
you can really get ahead.
A lot of opponents will take the western route. If you decide to
stay central, give plenty of room to the cars turning left. They
don’t look before they turn left, and they’ll run into you if you
let them. Instead, go on the right side and give them the turning
room.
Try not to run over the fire hydrants as that does major damage
to your car.
When you are past the town to the ruins (those white columns),
you can actually cut outside.
Jeff Reid adds: Tunnel path is fastest if you use parking brake
on corners, and lucky. Middle path (second left) is only about 1
second slower than tunnel path, but does not require as much
luck.
6.7 Normandie
The shortcut on the eastern side should always be taken, as it’s
actually shorter and not that hard to turn into or out of.
To negotiate the old town you’ll need to drive on grass a bit and
cut through between poles and buildings. It’s much easier doing
the town eastward instead of westward. I recommend when you head
westward, keep right. When you do eastward, take the LEFT side.
It’s unclear which of the western split route is worth taking.
One is shorter, but has more curves. The other is longer but
allows full speed cruising. If you take the corners perfectly and
have stock tires, you may be able to save a second taking the
shorter route. If you’re already up to speed or are using slicks,
just go the long route.
Interesting places: there’s a guy with a fiddle in the town, and
if you drive through the gas station you’ll hear the ding-ding
bells.
Jeff Reid adds: GT1 is good here as it won't go airborne as much
as the 911's do. Go right at first fork. Go right at the second
fork, slow down and go near or inside of fuel pumps. At the next
fork, take the dirt path.
6.8 Corsica
This multi-pathed course has a lot of splits, but the distance
involved is actually identical among the different routes.
There is one shortcut that involves going through a tunnel with
one tight S-curve. The main route, doing a long S-turn is about a
second slower. If you can take a bit of damage, slam your way
through the tunnel to gain a little time.
Some parts of the road are quite narrow, and the switchback can
cause spinouts if you take them too fast. What’s worse,
occasionally you’ll see traffic on this road, esp. club races.
Do NOT kiss the sides near tunnel entrances. The tunnels have
“lips”, which will stop you cold if you plan to scrape your way
out of the tunnel.
Jeff Reid adds: Corsica forward: take dirt tunnel, go left into
next tunnel, continuing on to next tunnel (right across
intersection), then next tunnel (left). Same path backwards.
6.9 Zone Industrielle
This is a fast track with two shortcuts and one alternate route.
Slicks all the way!
On the eastern side, pretty close to the eastern edge, there’s a
shortcut that takes you into a tunnel passing through the train
station. This shortcut should always be taken unless you’re just
going too fast to turn in. This shortcut bypasses the police in
the area.
The second shortcut is near the middle of the course, where you
turn into a steel factory and then turn back out. It should taken
in factory driver as this shortcut avoids the police in the area.
In races you can skip this as it’s not that much shorter.
The western side has a northern and a southern route. I
personally prefer the northern route. It’s narrower, but much
shorter, with lots of room to cut back into the main road.
There’s one very tight spot through the warehouses where a big
truck blocks the road. You will have to use the ramp. If you’re
heading east, the white car to your right is your sign. When you
see it, take the first left ramp you see. If you’re going west,
you should see the truck headlights. That’s the signal for you to
climb right side ramp.
Jeff Reid adds: Use first and last tunnels, skip middle tunnel.
In the case of the truck in tunnel, instead of the ramp, cars can
get by on the far side of truck, collision off [ed-- slide off?]
makes this a bit easier. Backwards is easier to get through. GT1
fastest here.
6.10 Monte Carlo 1
The switchback is the only tricky part. Once you pass the
switchback just be careful around the 90-degree turns and around
the fountain. Don’t take the underpass tunnel too fast, as
there’s an S-curve right at the end of it
6.11 Monte Carlo 2
Be very careful around the fountain. It’s very easy to slam into
that “lip” protecting the exit from the fountain court.
Otherwise, this course is a high-speed paradise, except for that
one 180 turn. Definitely use the high-speed gearbox on this. You
can run away from the crowd at the waterfront area.
6.12 Monte Carlo 3
The switchback can be pretty painful, which reduces top speed. Be
careful about that turn around the fountain at the end. Many
times, that “entrance” is pretty narrow, with the piece of
concrete sticking out. If you hit it, expect to take quite a bit
of damage or even flip over. Consider using the regular or close-
ratio box on this course.
6.13 Monte Carlo 4
MC4 has some sharp turns, but average speed is still quite high.
The trick is NOT to go too fast through the concrete tunnel with
the two bumps. If you’re going too fast, the curve right at the
exit will get you as you can’t brake while your car’s in the air!
Slow down a bit as you go into the tunnel. Tap the brakes while
you’re not in the air. Take the right curve out, then get on the
right side and cut left through that 90 degree turn. Then
accelerate down to the waterfront.
You can go full speed down the waterfront. The tricky part is
when you see the curve at the waterfront tunnel. Slow down a
little as that curve cannot be taken at full speed unless you
have really high downforce setting. Get through that curve, then
accelerate down to the yacht, then it’s back to street driving.
6.14 Monte Carlo 5
MC5 is a high-speed course with one tricky 90-degree left turn.
Again, don’t go through the tunnel that fast. If you don’t make
that 90-degree turn, you end up going on the side route, which is
a lot slower and narrower.
7 Evolution
Evolution is the heart of Porsche Unleashed. More than just a
“career mode”, it’s part racing, part car collecting, and part
money making.
Unless you win a tournament, the time will NOT pass. This leaves
you a lot of time to make money. Then you can get those cars you
want. However, once you let the years pass, there is no going
back.
You can repeat each tournament if you wish. You must place in the
top three in each of the tournaments before you can advance into
the next era or have a chance at the bonus car.
You CAN cancel a race if you hit ESC before the 3-2-1 countdown
starts. This is essential if you forgot to adjust your setup or
change your tires. Quit to game menu, then get back into
Evolution.
You CAN exit the game without finishing the whole tournament. You
can exit at the garage screen. When you open evolution again
you’ll still be in the tournament with the next race ready to go.
When you encounter an unfamiliar track in a tournament, you
should practice on this track before racing on it. The practice
button is there for a reason.
You only get one chance to win the bonus race. If you choose
EXIT, when you come back you’ll be in the next era, without a
chance to run the bonus race.
You are limited to a total of 81 cars in Evolution, which is
every car in the game, not counting the bonus cars.
7.1 The Evolution Economy
You have three sources of income: winning races, selling cars,
and selling parts (that you bought before).
You have four ways to spend money: repair cars, buying cars,
buying parts, and paying entry fees to the races.
7.1.1 Making Money
The way to make money is buy a used car, fix it up, then sell it.
You’ll make a 15-25% profit. There’s no need to paint it up or
add parts to it. The more expensive the car, the more money
you’ll make on it. The more repair a car needs, the less likely
you’ll make money.
For example, You found a somewhat damaged 356A for 10352. It
needs about 2400 of repairs. So total cost is about 12752. The
car should have a value of about 15000 when you’re finished the
repairs (look at the bottom of the screen, it should state the
value), and should sell for that price. Your profit is
approximately 2250.
The cars in your collection will actually lose money if you just
let them sit there. The more races you win with that car, and the
more parts you have in it, the more that car is worth. Of course,
the mileage and other condition of the car are also factors.
7.1.2 Supply and Demand
In the Evolution economy, supply and demand are both infinite.
The source of used cars never dry up. No matter how many you buy
up, there will always be more. You may have to exit the screen
then come back, but some will ALWAYS be available. Keep in mind
that some specific models may be scarce or impossible to find
after their time.
Likewise, selling a lot of cars does not in any way decrease
demand or otherwise affect prices. As long as you price your cars
correctly, they should go with no problems.
7.1.3 Pricing to Sell
Pricing the car to sell can be tricky until you notice the
“value” indicator in the garage for that car. Price the car
around that (maybe a tiny bit below), and it should sell with no
problem.
The more races you win (and more 1st place you win) the more the
car would sell for.
7.1.4 Saving Money
The only money savings you can control is minimize repairs.
There’s no haggling (negotiating) over prices of cars and parts.
Of course, you don’t need to enhance every single car in your
inventory. If you have multiple car sin the same family, you can
use only one set of parts, and transfer as needed.
You would have some parts left over from enhancing all these
cars. Sell those extra parts for a little more money.
7.2 Evolution : Classic Era
Please see the individual course notes and car notes for tips on
how to handle each.
The Classic Era only has tournaments. There are no club races
yet.
When you start in 1950, there are no used cars yet. You must
reach 1956 before used cars become available.
The follow tips assumes you want one of EVERY model of every
Porsche in your collection.
You actually win a lot more than what the tournament says is the
prize. You have to add the per-race winnings (depends on the
finish).
You have to place at least in the Top 3 in each tournament to
advance into the Golden Era.
7.2.1 Classic Era Tournaments
To simplify the listing, only the first four letters of the
course name is listed. Each course has the direction of travel
listed. It’s either west to east (WE), or east to west (EW).
Monte Carlo circuits are clockwise (CW) or counter-clockwise
(CCW).
You start Evolution with 11K, in the year 1950. You have just
enough to get the 356 1100 Ferdinand or the Cabriolet. The
Ferdinand has slightly better handling. Don’t scratch it in first
tournament, as you have no money for repairs.
7.2.1.1 356 Challenge (1950)
356 only, no entry fee, 5K prize.
Two races: Norm (WE), Cote (EW)
The first race is very easy. The AI drivers are very conservative
in the classic tournaments.
I suggest using the Ferdinand, as it handles slightly better than
the Cabriolet due to stiffer frame (having a roof).
When you complete this tournament it’ll be 1956, and used cars
(of all the previous years, total of 10 models) will be on the
market. If you placed first in both races, you should make 15.5K,
enough to start buying, fixing, and selling the cars. Be patient,
and you can make enough to put all 10 cars in your collection
(used, of course) as well as have a good investment base for the
future (say 100K) after you get the best 356A and the
enhancements.
7.2.1.2 356 A Cup (1956)
356A only, no entry fee, 6K prize.
Two races, Pyr (WE), Norm (EW)
This tournament is still quite easy. You should finish at least a
minute ahead in both races, even without any performance parts.
The 356A have more power, so you will have to learn to
countersteer now. Pick the Super Coupe. Add the performance
upgrades. Decrease the rear downforce setting to 45 (it actually
handles better that way!)
When you complete this tournament it’ll be 1960. The Regular
356’s will virtually disappear from the market. All the used cars
will be 356A except for 1 356 every once in a long while. Use the
investment base to double your money to 250K, then buy all 10
models available back in 1956, fix them up, and put on your paint
job. That should be enough for you to buy the 356B with all the
performance part upgrades. Keep the money, as you’ll need to do
the same thing again for the next stage.
7.2.1.3 356 B Trophy (1960)
356B, 1600cc engine maximum. No entry fee, 10K prize.
Three races, Cote (WE), Pyr (WE), Norm (WE)
This tournament starts to show some heated competition. If you’re
good, you can still beat the nearest competition by 20+ seconds
Use the Super 90 Hardtop or Super 90 Speedster. These two are
identical in stats. The Super 90 engine should ensure you out-
accelerate all competition.
When you complete this tournament, it’ll be 1965. The older
class 3 cars will come back, though still rare compare to the
newer class 3 and class 2 cars. Now is a good time to get all the
cars you missed, and there’s actually 12 of them (not 10!).
Remember to keep at LEAST 250K for future investment.
7.2.1.4 2000 cc Challenge (1965)
2000 cc engine only. 500 entry fee, 11K prize.
Three races: Cote (WE), Pyr (EW), Norm (EW)
The 2000 cc challenge is limited to either the new 911’s, or the
356B 2000 GS Carrera, with the same 2000 cc engine.
If you looked at the car compare screen, you should realize
immediately that the 911 is a superior car in all aspects than
the 356B 2000. Definitely pick the 911, and add all the parts you
can.
The 911 is looser than the 356B. You will have to learn to
countersteer each corner. If the tires didn’t squeak around each
corner, you’re not going fast enough. Turn into the corner. As
the tail breaks loose, countersteer slightly, just enough so the
car doesn’t get away from you, but leave the tail turning. When
you got around the corner, countersteer enough to straighten out
and accelerate out of the corner.
When you finish this tournament, it’ll be 1969. The 911 S is now
available.
7.2.1.5 911 Cup (1969)
911 only. 1K entry fee, 12K prize.
Three races: Cote (EW), Pyr (WE), 2 laps MC3 (CCW)
As the 911S is now available, definitely get one. Seems somehow
your competition use a lot of enhanced 911’s instead of 911S, but
the end result is the same. Add the parts, learn to
countersteer, and you should advance with no problems.
Once you finish this tournament in the top 3, you’ve finished the
Classic Era, and you go onto the 550 Spyder Cup.
7.2.1.6 550 Spyder Cup (Classic Era Bonus Race)
In the Bonus Race, you get one chance to win a 550 Spyder. You’ll
have to win against 7 other 550 Spyders on MC3 for 5 laps. If you
win, you get to keep the car. If you decline, you go straight to
the Golden Era.
The trick of handling the 550 Spyder is the right speed and
countersteer. This car understeers until the rear wheels come
loose, then the car switches to medium oversteer. If you approach
the corner just right, you’ll be just loose enough to get the
nose around the corner. If you go too fast, you’ll either hit the
outside wall or do a 180 as you lose the tail completely. It’s
better to go too slow into the corner than too fast.
Consider taking the switchback fast, slide sideways into the
outside wall, then continue on. You’ll be damaged, but you should
pass all the competition at once.
7.3 Evolution : Golden Era
To simplify the listing, only the first four letters of the
course name is listed. Each course has the direction of travel
listed. It’s either west to east (WE), or east to west (EW).
Monte Carlo circuits are clockwise (CW) or counter-clockwise
(CCW).
While in Golden Era, you can race either the Tournaments or the
Classic Club Races. The Club races do not count against advancing
to modern era, and will not cause the years to elapse. It’s a way
to make your old cars worth more.
If you did not win the 550 Spyder in the Classic Bonus Race, you
can buy a new one from “new cars” screen until about 1975. After
that you can always find one on the used market, though it’ll
cost a lot more.
Remember to make more money. It’s boring, but it helps your
bottom line. You’ll need at least a million, if not more.
7.3.1 Golden Era Tournaments
The best opponents will tend to use the close ratio gearbox or
the low speed gearbox, so they will beat you in acceleration. Try
to cut them off and keep them behind you. AI usually do not like
collisions and should avoid you.
7.3.1.1 914 Cup (1970)
914 only. 3500 Entry fee, 15K prize.
Two races: Schw (WE), Corsica (EW)
The 914’s are not very maneuverable. Therefore, take EVERY
shortcut you can find, but use the right tires. You can only get
the 1.7’s for now, and they’re a little underpowered, similar to
the original 356’s.
When you finish, it’ll be 1973. Now you get the really hard-to-
handle cars… The 2.7 Carrera RS (Rally Style).
7.3.1.2 Mixed Class Challenge (1973)
Class 2 or 3 Golden Era only, 4K Entry fee, 2K prize.
Three races: Zone (WE), MC1 (CW), Pyr (WE)
This race allows either class 2 or class 3 cars, which basically
means the 911 S 2.4, or the 911 Carrera RS 2.7. If you can handle
the 2.0 911 S, you can probably handle the 2.4’s with a bit of
practice. On the other hand, the 2.7’s are REALLY loose. If you
lose control, expect to incur major damage and lose the race.
One setup seems to work for me for the RS. Do not adjust
downforce. Adjust tire pressure to 40 psi both front and rear.
Ride height is reduced to 3 notches from left. Stiffness is
reduced to 3 notches from right. Travel is 2 notches left from
center. Do NOT fly through the corners. This car has NO margin of
error for you to correct the approach if you miss the approach
speed. Learn to “glide” around the corners and you should win.
It’s not surprising if you do NOT take first place. The
competition (usually 1 RS 2.7 and 1 S 2.4) will beat you pretty
bad if you can’t handle the RS. On the other hand, as long as you
place in the top 3, you’ll advance to the next tournament.
7.3.1.3 911 Non-turbo Trophy (1975)
911 Non-turbo only, 4500 entry fee, 22500 prize.
Three races: Cote (EW), Schw (WE), Cors (EW)
The car choices are the same… 2.7 RS, or 2.4 S. Which one can you
handle better?
One setup seems to work for me for the RS. Do not adjust
downforce. Adjust tire pressure to 40 psi both front and rear.
Ride height is reduced to 3 notches from left. Stiffness is
reduced to 3 notches from right. Travel is 2 notches left from
center. Do NOT fly through the corners. This car has NO margin of
error for you to correct the approach if you miss the approach
speed. Learn to “glide” around the corners and you should win.
Be careful on the switchbacks and the 180’s at Schw and Cors.
It’s very easy to spin out on those. Slow down enough so you just
“glide” around the corner.
Don’t be surprised if you do NOT take first place. The
competition (usually 1 RS 2.7 and 1 S 2.4) will beat you pretty
bad if you can’t handle the RS. On the other hand, as long as you
place in the top 3, you’ll advance to the next tournament.
7.3.1.4 Carrera RS Challenge (1977)
Carrera RS only, 10K entry fee, 25K prize
Four races: Norm (WE), MC2 (CCW), Zone (WE), Pyr (EW)
This tournament is very hard. Don’t be surprised if you do NOT
place in the top three in this tournament in your first attempt.
You will likely spend 5-10K in repairs every race. Reverse
Normandie is very tough trying to make it through the town
without slamming into those hay hills. Take the LEFT side through
town is the key. While right side looks tempting, it’s also too
tight.
One setup seems to work for me for the RS. Do not adjust
downforce. Adjust tire pressure to 45 psi both front and rear.
Ride height is reduced to 3 notches from left. Stiffness is
reduced to 3 notches from right. Travel is 2 notches left from
center. Do NOT fly through the corners. This car has NO margin of
error for you to correct the approach if you miss it. If you
don’t like the looseness, add more downforce in the rear.
Note: You don’t have to do the Carrera RS Challenge when it’s
first offered. You can do the 911 Turbo Trophy in 1977 with the
3.0 Turbo first.
7.3.1.5 944 Cup (1982)
944 only, 10K entry fee, 50K prize
Five races: Pyr (WE), Zone (WE), MC1 (CW), Cors (WE), Schw (EW)
The front-engined car behaves quite differently from the typical
Porsche. Compare to the Carrera RS, this car is VERY forgiving.
It understeers, so braking while turning is actually encouraged,
as it helps add traction to the front wheels and pull the nose
through the turn. It can even handle a little bit of handbrake
turn, as long as you don’t overdo it. It CAN spinout if you
approach a corner too fast, esp. an ultra-slow corner like a
switchback. In that case, LET the car slide ALL the way into the
wall, and let the wall straighten you out.
944 with top-of-the-line parts should use setup of 15% ride
height, 80% stiffness, 30% travel, 45 tire pressure front and
rear, and no change in downforce. This setup is sufficient to
outturn the competition, as long as you don’t do it TOO fast. If
you do approach too fast, use the brakes and even the handbrakes.
Use Slicks in the first three races, then stock tires at
Schwartzwald.
Note: by 1982 it’s impossible find any 356’s. You may find some
of the ’59 models, but anything earlier are simply not available.
You can find plenty of 356A’s and 356B’s though.
Note: You don’t have to do the 944 Cup when it’s first offered.
You can do the 911 Turbo Trophy in 1982, since those cars
appeared back in 75 and 78.
7.3.1.6 911 Turbo Trophy (1988)
911 Turbo only (3.0 or 3.3), 20K entry fee, 60K prize.
Four races: Norm (EW), Zone (EW), Pyr (WE), Schw (WE)
These cars are not quite as loose as the Carrera RS, but they’re
still pretty loose. Learn to countersteer around the corners then
straighten out. Use slicks in the first three races, then stock
tires for Schwartzwald.
This is the last tournament in Golden Era. Ready for the Moby
Dick trophy?
7.3.1.7 Moby Dick Trophy (Golden Era Bonus Race)
In the Bonus Race, you get one chance to win a 935/78 Moby Dick.
You’ll have to win against 7 other Moby Dicks on MC2 for 5 laps.
If you win, you get to keep the car. If you decline, you go
straight to the Modern Era.
You really, really need to practice before taking on the race.
The car and the track are unfamiliar. If you don’t practice,
you’ll likely lose.
If you didn’t win, you can buy a Moby Dick from the showroom. You
may find a used one once in a while in the immediate year after.
7.3.2 Classic Era Club Races
Club races may have traffic on the road. Racing in traffic means
you’ll have to drive slower to keep yourself on the right side of
the road…
7.3.2.1 356 Cup
Any 356 variant, 2K to enter, 20K prize money
Three races: Schw (WE), Cors (EW), Norm (EW)
As the name suggests, you can use the 356B 2000 Carrera GS, and
blow the doors off every body else (except another GS). Why use
anything else?
7.3.2.2 Over the Mountain
Any classic era car, 1K to enter, 40K prize money, no pay till
end
Three races: Pyr (WE), Corsica (EW), Cote (WE)
You’ll probably want the 911 S Coupe, as it’s the best of the
classic era.
Keep in mind that “no pay till end” means exactly that… No money
for repairs. On the other hand, you should have PLENTY of cars
and money that repair bill should be insignificant.
7.3.2.3 Classic 911
Pre-1970 911, 2500 to enter, 30K prize money
Three races: MC1 (CW), MC3 (CCW), MC2 (CCW)
Again, you’ll want the 911 S Coupe. Keep the tail a little loose
to glide around the corners.
7.3.2.4 European Rally
Classic Era Cars only, 4K to enter, 100K prize money, no pay till
end
Six races: Cote (WE), Norm (WE), Pyr (EW), Schw (EW), Cors (WE),
Zone (EW).
You’ll probably want the 911 S Coupe again. Don’t damage too far
as you don’t get any payment till the very end.
7.4 Evolution : Modern Era
To simplify the listing, only the first four letters of the
course name is listed. Each course has the direction of travel
listed. It’s either west to east (WE), or east to west (EW).
Monte Carlo circuits are clockwise (CW) or counter-clockwise
(CCW).
While in Modern Era, you can race either the Tournaments or the
Club Races. The Club races will not cause the years to elapse,
but do not count against finishing the modern era either.
If you did not win the Moby Dick, you can purchase one at the
“new cars” screen until 1992. It costs 450K, but it sure looks
good. You may find a few at the used car screen depending on your
luck.
The cars are starting to be expensive, so definitely make a LOT
of money here. 5 to 10 million is not too little.
7.4.1 Modern Era Tournaments
Modern Era tournaments feature the fastest cars. Traction control
and all-wheel-drive are starting to become standard equipment.
7.4.1.1 Class 3 Trophy (1990)
Must use modern class 3 car, 25K to enter, 150K prize money.
Two races: Auvg (WE), Alps (WE)
As you’ll be doing a bit of snow driving, you’ll need rain tires.
Definitely bring an AWD vehicle like the 964 Carrera 4.
7.4.1.2 Class 2 Trophy (1993)
Any modern class 2 car, 30K to enter, 175K prize money.
Three races: Auto (WE), MC5 (CW), Schw (EW)
Bring an AWD vehicle like the 993 Carrera 4’s and rain tires for
Autobahn.
7.4.1.3 Class 1 Trophy (1996)
Any modern class 1 car, 35K to enter, 100K prize money
Four races: Zone (WE), Alps (WE), MC4 (CCW), Auto (WE)
You only have one choice in 1996: the 993 Turbo.
If you collect the cars, you may notice some ’95 Carrera 4’s
available in the used car section. Those are not available in the
new car showrooms, so don’t miss them.
7.4.1.4 Boxster Challenge (1997)
Boxster only, 40K to enter, 125K prize money
Four races: Auvg (WE), Norm (WE), Cors (WE), MC1 (CCW)
Boxster tends to understeer instead of oversteer, at least in the
default config. Add more front downforce and/or a little toe in
to keep the front wheels on the ground. Use the hardtop config
for best performance. If you’re really swinging wide, consider
tapping the hand brakes.
7.4.1.5 911 Anniversary Cup (1999)
911 (996) non-turbo only, 45K to enter, 140K prize money
Five races: Cote (WE), Zone (EW), Pyrn (WE), MC2 (CW), Alps (EW)
Definitely bring in the best Class 2 996, like the 996 Carrera 4.
AWD definitely helps in all situations. The tracks should be easy
by now except Alps, as you’re doing this one “backwards” from all
previous Alps encounters.
7.4.1.6 911 Turbo Challenge (2000)
Modern Era 911 turbo only (993 or 996), 50K to enter, 200K prize
money
Six races: Norm (EW), Schw (WE), Cors (EW), MC3 (CW), Auto (EW),
Auvg (EW)
There’s only one car to choose, the 996 Turbo. You’re doing both
Autobahn and Auvergne “backwards”, so better practice first.
7.4.1.7 911 GT1 Cup (Bonus Race)
In the Bonus Race, you get one chance to win a 911 GT1. You’ll
have to win (i.e. first place) against 7 other GT1 on MC5 for 5
laps. If you win, you get to keep the car. If you decline, you’ve
finished Evolution.
You really, really need to practice before taking on the race.
The car and the track are unfamiliar. If you don’t practice,
you’ll likely lose. The GT1 is VERY sticky and understeers. MC5
is not that hard except for this one big right hand curve after
the Yacht turn. Then there’s the left turn as you come out the
tunnel. Both must be handled with reduced speed. One of the AI
drivers is VERY fast. Try not to get into accidents.
7.4.2 Classic Era Club Races
Please see 8.3.2 for complete listing.
7.4.3 Golden Era Club Races
7.4.3.1 914 Challenge
914 model only, 3K to enter, 30K prize money
Three races: Cors (EW), Alps (WE), Schw (WE)
You’ll want to use the 914 1.8 (better engine, really) with all
the enhancements.
7.4.3.2 944 Trophy
944 model only, 5K to enter, 80K prize money
Three races: Schw (WE), Zone (WE), Alps (WE)
Well, 944 S2 or the earlier 944 S coupe? They’re about equal with
the extra parts added.
7.4.3.3 Western European Rally
Any pre-1980 model, 38K to enter, 400K prize money, no pay till
end
Nine races: Schw (WE), Auvg (WE), Cote (EW), Cors (EW), Norm
(WE), Auto (WE), Pyr (WE), Alps (WE), Zone (EW)
The best pre-1980 car is the 3.3 Turbo. Learn to handle the
slightly loose tail.
7.4.3.4 Carrera 2.7 RS Cup
Carrera 2.7 RS model only, 10K to enter, 175K prize money
Six races: MC4 (CW), Alps (EW), Pyr (EW), MC2 (CW), Cors (WE),
MC5 (CCW).
2.7 RS is hard to handle, as explained before. Be VERY careful.
7.4.3.5 Hill Climb
Any classic or golden era car, 10K to enter, 40K prize money
Three races: Norm (EW), Pyr (WE), Alps (WE)
The best Golden Era car would be the 3.3 Turbo.
7.4.3.6 Monte Carlo
Any classic or golden era car, 15K to enter, 70K prize money
Five races: MC1 (CW), MC2 (CCW), MC3 (CCW), MC4 (CW), and MC5
(CW)
The 3.3 Turbo is probably your best bet, unless you wish to bring
out your Moby Dick for this…
7.5 You’ve won Evolution!
Now that you’ve won, you can play all the “club races”.
7.5.1 Classic Era Club Races
Please see 8.3.2
7.5.2 Golden Era Club Races
Please see 8.4.3
7.5.3 Modern Era Club Races
7.5.3.1 AWD
All Wheel Drive vehicles only, 15K to enter, 100K prize money
Four races: Schw (WE), Alps (EW), Pyr (EW), Auvg (WE)
911 (996) Turbo is AWD… So go for it! Otherwise bring a Carrera 4
instead.
7.5.3.2 Hill Climb
No restrictions, 10K to enter, 90K prize money
Three races: Norm (EW), Pyr (WE), Alps (WE)
As there are no restrictions, feel free to bring out the 911 GT1.
Otherwise, use the 996 Turbo.
7.5.3.3 Monte Carlo
No restrictions, 20K to enter, 150K prize money
Five races: MC1 (CW), MC2 (CCW), MC3 (CCW), MC4 (CW), and MC5
(CW)
Feel free to bring out the 911 GT1. Otherwise, just use the 996
Turbo…
7.5.3.4 Rally of Europe
No restrictions, 25K to enter, 1 million prize money, no pay till
end
Nine races: Schw (WE), Pyr (WE), Cote (WE), Alps (WE), Auto (WE),
Auvg (WE), Norm (EW), Cors (EW), Zone (WE)
As there’s no restrictions, feel free to bring out the 911 GT1.
Otherwise, just use the 996 Turbo…
7.5.3.5 Turbo Trophy
Factory Turbo only, 20K to enter, 200K prize money
Four races: Cote (EW), Zone (WE), Norm (WE), Cors (EW)
Use the 911 (996) Turbo.
7.6 Evolution Log by Jeff Reid
Classic Era Tournaments
# Year Name Track for/bck car
used by Jeff
1 1950 356 Challenge Normandie f 1950 356 1100 Cabriolet
2 Cote dAzur f
3 1956 356 A Cup Pyrenees f 1956 356A 1600 Super Speedster
4 Normandie f
5 1960 356 B Endurance Cote dAzur f 1960 Super 90 Roadster
6 Pyrenees f
7 Normandie b
8 1965 2000cc challenge Cote dAzur f 1965 911 Coupe
9 Pyrenees b
10 Normandie f
11 1969 911 Cup Cote dAzur b 1967 911 S Coupe
12 Pyrenees f
13 Monte Carlo 3 f
14 Bonus Monte Carlo 3 f 1956 550A Spyder
Golden Era Tournaments
1 1970 914 Trophy Schwarzwald f 1970 914/4 1.7
2 Corsica f
3 1973 Mixed Class Challenge Zone industrielle f 1973 911 Carrera RS 2.7
4 Monte Carlo 1 (2 laps) f
5 Pyrenees f
6 1975 911 non-turbo cup Cote dAzur b 1973 911 Carrera RS 2.7
7 Schwarzwald f
8 Corsica f
9 1978 Carrera Rs 2.7 Challenge Normandie b 1973 911 Carrers RS 2.7
10 Monte Carlo 2 (2 laps) f
11 Zone industrielle f
12 Pyrenees b
13 1982 944 Cup Pyrenees f 1982 944 Coupe
14 Zone industrielle f
15 Monte Carlo 3 (2 laps) b
16 Corsica b
17 Schwarzwald b
18 1988 911 Turbo Challenge Normandie f 1978 911 Turbo 3.3 (930)
19 Zone industrielle b
20 Pyrenees f
21 Schwarzwald f
22 bonus Monte Carlo 2 (5 laps) f 1978 935/78 Moby Dick
Modern Era Tournaments
1 1989 Class 3 Trophy Auvergne f 1989 944 S2 Cabriolet (964)
2 Alps f
3 1993 Class 2 Trophy Autobahn f 1993 911 Turbo 3.6 (964)
4 Monte Carlo 5 (2 laps) f
5 Schwarzwald b
6 1996 Class 1 Trophy Zone Industrielle f 1995 911 Turbo 3.6 (993)
7 Alps f
8 Monte Carlo 4 (2 laps) f
9 Autobahn f
10 1997 Boxter Challenge Auvergne f 1997 Boxter
11 Normandie b
12 Corsica b
13 Monte Carlo 1 (2 laps) b
14 1999 911 Anniversary Cup Cote dAzur f 1999 911 Carrera 4 (996)
15 Zone Industrielle b
16 Pyrenees f
17 Monte Carlo 2 (2 laps) b
18 Alps b
19 2000 911 Turbo Challenge Normandie f 2000 911 Turbo (996)
20 Schwarzwald f
21 Corsica f
22 Monte Carlo 3 (2 laps) b
23 Autobahn b
24 Auvergne b
25 bonus Monte Carlo 5 (5 laps) f 1998 911 GT1
Classic Club
1 356 Challenge Schwarzwald f 1962 356B 2000 Carrera 2
2 Corsica f
3 Normandie b
4 Over the Mountain Pyrenees f 1967 911 S Coupe
5 Corsica f
6 Cote dAzur f
7 Classic 911 Monte Carlo 1 (3 laps) f 1967 911 S Coupe
8 Monte Carlo 3 (3 laps) f
9 Monte Carlo 2 (3 laps) f
10 European Rally Cote dAzur b 1967 911 S Coupe
11 Normandie b
12 Pyrenees b
13 Schwarzwald b
14 Corsica b
15 Zone Industrielle b
Golden Club
1 914 Challenge Corsica f 1973 914/4 2.0
2 Alps f
3 Schwarzwald f
4 944 Trophy Schwarzwald f 1988 944 Turbo S Coupe
5 Zone Industrielle f
6 Alps f
7 Rally of Western Europe Schwarzwald f 1978 935/78 Moby Dick
8 Auvergne f
9 Cote dAzur b
10 Corsica f
11 Normandie b
12 Autobahn f
13 Pyrenees f
14 Alps f
15 Zone Industrielle b
16 911 Carrera RS 2.7 Cup Monte Carlo 4 (3 laps) f 1973 911 Carrera RS 2.7 Coupe
17 Alps b
18 Pyrenees b
19 Monte Carlo 2 (3 laps) b
20 Corsica b
21 Monte Carlo 5 (3 laps) b
22 Hill Climb Normandie f 1978 911 Turbo 3.3 Coupe (930)
23 Pyrenees f
24 Alps f
25 Monte Carlo Monte Carlo 1 (5 laps) f 1978 935/78 Moby Dick
26 Monte Carlo 2 (5 laps) f
27 Monte Carlo 3 (5 laps) f
28 Monte Carlo 4 (5 laps) f
29 Monte Carlo 5 (5 laps) f
Modern Club
1 AWD Challenge Schwarzwald f 1995 911 Turbo (993)
2 Alps b
3 Pyrenees b
4 Auvergne f
5 Hill Climb Normandie f 1995 911 Turbo (993)
6 Pyrenees f
7 Alps f
8 Monte Carlo Monte Carlo 1 (5 laps) f 1998 911 GT1
9 Monte Carlo 2 (5 laps) f
10 Monte Carlo 3 (5 laps) f
11 Monte Carlo 4 (5 laps) f
12 Monte Carlo 5 (5 laps) f
13 Rally of Europe Schwarzwald f 1998 911 GT1
14 Pyrenees b
15 Cote dAzur f
16 Alps f
17 Autobahn f
18 Auvergne f
19 Normandie f
20 Corsica f
21 Zone Industrielle f
22 Turbo Trophy Cote dAzur b 1995 911 Turbo (993)
23 Zone Industrielle f
24 Normandie b
25 Corsica f
7.7 Full Evolution Car List and Availability (by Jeff Reid)
Year Car Model Available Class
=======================================================
1950 356 1100 Coupe Ferdinand class 3 classic
Cabriolet
1951 356 1300 Coupe Cabriolet
1952 356 1500 Coupe
Cabriolet
1953 356 1500 Super Coupe
Super Cabriolet
1954 356 1300 Super Coupe
Super Cabriolet
1956 356A 1300 Coupe
Cabriolet
Super Coupe
Super Cabriolet
1600 Cabriolet
Coupe
Super Cabriolet
Super Coupe
Speedster
Super Speedster
1959 356A 1600 Convertible D (u in 1965)
Super Convertible D
1960 356B 1600 Hardtop class 2
Coupe
Roadster
Cabriolet
Super Coupe
Super Cabriolet
Super Roadster
Super Hardtop
Super 90 Cabriolet
Super 90 Coupe
Super 90 Hardtop
Super 90 Roadster
1962 356B 2000 GS Carrera2 class 1
1965 911 Coupe (next era 1969)
1967 911 Targa
S Coupe
S Targa
1956 550A Spyder class R
1970 914/4 1.7 class 3 golden
1972 911 S 2.4 Coupe
Targa
1973 914/4 2.0
1974 914/4 1.8
1982 944 Coupe
1987 944 S Coupe
1973 911 Carrera RS 2.7 Coupe (fd) class 2
1988 944 Turbo S Coupe
1975 930 Turbo 3.0 Coupe class 1
1978 930 Turbo 3.3 Coupe
1978 935/78 Coupe "Moby Dick" class r
1989 944 S2 Cabriolet class 3 modern
964 Carrera 4 Coupe
1990 964 Carrera 2 Coupe
Carrera 2 Cabriolet
Carrera 2 Targa
Carrera 4 Cabriolet
Carrera 4 Targa
1991 944 Turbo Cabriolet
1997 ... Boxster (fd)
2000 ... Boxster S
1991 964 Turbo 3.3 Coupe class 2
1993 964 Turbo 3.6 Coupe
1994 993 Carrera Coupe
Carrera Cabriolet
1995 993 Carrera 4 Coupe
Carrera 4 Cabriolet
1996 993 Carrera Coupe
Carrera Targa
Carrera 4 Coupe
Carrera 4S Coupe
1997 993 Carrera S 3.6 Coupe
1998 996 Carrera 3.4 Coupe
Carrera 3.4 Cabriolet
1999 996 Carrera 4 Coupe
Carrera 4 Cabriolet
1995 993 Turbo 3.6 Coupe class 1
2000 996 Turbo (fd)
1998 911 GT1 Race Version class R
downloadable cars
1987 959
1992 928 GTS
1997 911 GT2
1998 911 GT3
factory driver bonus cars
1973 911 Carrera RS 2.7 Coupe
1997 Boxster
2000 996 Turbo
Classic Era
1950-2 races
1956-2 races
1960-3 races
1965-3 races
1969-3 races + bonus race
Golden Era
1970-2 races
1973-3 races
1975-3 races
1978-4 races
1982-5 races
1988-4 races + bonus race
Modern Era
1989-2 races
1993-3 races
1996-4 races
1997-4 races
1999-5 races
2000-6 races + bonus race
8 Factory Driver
You were just hired at Porsche as a junior test driver. Your
objective is to make it to Ace Test Driver. Throughout the
process, you’ll race fellow test drivers (of all ranks), perform
various tasks such as delivery of important parts or cars to
specific destinations, and perform specific stunt maneuvers.
You MUST complete each mission of factory driver to advance to
the next one.
All the maneuvers except Reverse 180 can be done with automatic
transmission.
8.1 The Mission Types
8.1.1 Skidpad Maneuvers
If you hit a cone, you get 1 second added to your time. So try
not to do it.
You must complete the spin maneuver, either the 180 or the 360,
within the specified area (between the cones).
Find the right speed to allow you to make the turn but maintain
enough speed to continue.
8.1.2 Slalom Test
The slalom test is a test of finding the optimum speed to take
each corner. Speed up, slow down to turn, then speed up again.
It’s about maintaining the rhythm. If you hit a cone, you get 1
second added to your time.
8.1.3 Car Delivery
Car delivery is hard because 1) You can’t scratch the car, and 2)
there may be some cops around. While the cops are pretty fast and
they can overtake you and/or ram you off the road, that’s not the
real danger. It’s the traffic cars that try to get off the road
when they hear sirens that cause them to get in YOUR way.
To deal with police, LET them pass you. When they come up fast
behind you, dodge to one side and slow down, THEN find a good
spot to pass them again. If you let them come directly behind
you, they’ll push you off the road.
Stay in the center of the road when police are behind you. The
traffic cars will try to pull over to the side, leaving the
center open. If you stay in the lanes or try to go for the
shoulders you’ll run right into traffic.
If your car is scratched, the timer turns red. As long as timer
is still green, you can continue. Sometimes, gentle collisions
don’t count.
8.1.4 Road Rally
Road Rally basically means follow the directions and hit all the
checkpoints in the minimum amount of time. The route has been
planned for you already.
The trick in winning road rally is TIME. This requires you to
learn the course intimately, and how to take each corner
optimally. Where can you go fast, where should you go slow, etc.
8.1.5 Road Racing
Racing basically means you race fellow drivers, no holds barred.
Body damage is tolerated. In fact, you CAN and SHOULD push other
cars off the road, into traffic, etc. Just make sure you don’t go
off the road yourself.
8.2 Specific Maneuvers
Here are some tips about the individual maneuvers. You will need
to perform all of these optimally to win.
8.2.1 90 degree turn
You don’t need handbrakes to perform 90-degree turns. As you come
close to the cone, judge the optimum stopping distance to engage
the brakes full. You need to reach the cone JUST at the turning
speed. Then turn the wheel full over, and straighten out and
start accelerating.
8.2.2 Slalom
The trick in slalom is the rhythm and correct approach speed.
Speed up on the straight sections. Slow down just enough to turn,
try to carry as much speed into the “corner” as possible without
losing control, then accelerate out of the turn toward the next
cone.
8.2.3 180 spin
The 180 spin requires the use of handbrakes. You’ll probably want
to spin right, esp. in the mid-engine Porsches, due to the
gyroscopic effect of the engine. Head for the cones, just a
little to the left of center. When you reach it, pull handbrakes
and pull hard right, then immediately release the steering to
neutral. You should spin only 180 degrees or close enough.
8.2.4 180 degree cone turn
The 180-degree cone turn is going around the cone and reverse
course. This is hard to do optimally. The best way is treat this
as a 150 turn. Approach the cone, but go a little wide. Turn in
just as you’re about to pass it, then pull the handbrakes and do
a 150 turn (a little shy of full 180). You should now be lined up
and ready to continue.
8.2.5 360 spin
The 360 spin is hard to master until you figure out that you need
to assist the car a bit with the steering. Approach the cones at
a good speed (80 kph is good). When you just about to reach it,
pull handbrakes and hit hard right. As the car turns 180, reverse
the wheel to hard left and release the brakes. Straighten out
when the car turns all 360 degrees and accelerate out of the
cones.
If you can’t finish the maneuver inside the cones, you’re either
starting too late or going too fast. Slow down, or start a little
earlier than you did.
8.2.6 180 reverse spin
The 180 reverse spin must be performed with manual transmission.
Basically, you speed up in reverse, then hit neutral, turn full
right, then engage first just as the car came around 180 degrees.
You could cheat on this test. Reverse into the cones, then turn
the wheel left and stop when the car faces the row of cones.
Right turn 90 degrees and exit the cones. It’ll be a lot slower,
but it’ll count. You have plenty of time on the clock to finish
the other maneuvers.
8.2.7 Proper cornering
Most people do not take the corners correctly. The correct way to
take the corner is start from outside of the turn, brake a
little, aim for the apex of the turn. As you crest the apex,
start accelerating out of the turn. Use the shoulder and all the
room to maximize the turning radius. The smaller the radius, the
sharper the turn, the slower you are when exiting the turn.
In NFS:PU (and most driving games), driving off the road slow you
down. You can use this effect to help you “brake” into the
corner.
8.2.8 Loose-tail recovery
This is not a maneuver, but you’ll need to know it for the races.
Your tires are screeching and your car nose is swinging further
than you want. What would you do? The proper reaction can mean no
loss of time vs. a total spinout and out of the race.
First step is STOP ACCELERATING. Neither step on the gas nor the
brakes.
Second step is countersteer slightly, until the tail stops
sliding.
The car will then start going straight. Turn wheel into the turn
and continue the turn and perhaps accelerate again, but gently.
Too much torque can break the tires loose again.
8.2.9 Brake Turn
Sometimes, you HAVE to push the tail loose to get the tail around
to get the nose pointed in the right direction, and that is the
Brake Turn.
In a turn, do a QUICK pull the hand-brakes and your tail should
slide. If you pull the handbrake too long, you get a full 180-
turn. Do QUICK TAPS and you'll get shorter sharp turns. Turn this
at a few corners, learn what your car can or cannot do.
You should be careful doing this in the rear-engined cars. The
front-engine car like the 944 is a bit more forgiving with this
maneuver.
8.3 The Assignments
8.3.1 Assignment 1: Slalom
Easy slalom… Take the 98 Boxster to the skidpad and do an easy
slalom… Right, left, right, then 180. You have 27 seconds.
Complete this and you get the title of Junior Test Driver.
This is the easiest slalom there is. As long as you don’t go full
out and try to slam through each corner you should have plenty of
time to make it through. Don’t turn too hard around those 90-
degree turns and lose sight of the next cone.
8.3.2 Assignment 2: Second Slalom
Not so easy slalom… Take the Carrera to the skidpad. Right, left,
right, left 90, left 90, left, right, left… You have 26 seconds
this time.
8.3.3 Assignment 3: Road Slalom
Take the classic Carrera RS and complete this road slalom without
damaging the car. You have 32 seconds.
Consider running over the first cone in order not to ruin your
approach.
8.3.4 Assignment 4: 360 Spin 1
Take the Carrera S and do a 360 four-wheel drift within the cones
on the skidpad. You have 15 seconds.
See the 360 spin technique explanation above.
8.3.5 Assignment 5: Highway Slalom
Take the 911 Turbo and try to finish the Autobahn slalom in under
28 seconds.
Standard slalom test, except for the rain. Find the optimum speed
for each corner, and brake just enough to get the nose pointing
the right way.
8.3.6 Assignment 6: Delivery
You have 1:50 to get a brand new 911 Turbo to the docks at Cote
d’Azur.
This course has no shortcuts, and no cops. Just take the corners
optimally and you should be fine.
8.3.7 Assignment 7: Town Slalom
Do the Normandie slalom in under 50 seconds with the Carrera.
8.3.8 Assignment 8: Longer Skidpad
Beat the 58-second record on this complex skidpad, which is
basically slalom followed by multiple 180 turns.
The 180 turns are a little tricky after doing only slaloms, but
you should have no problems after some practice.
8.3.9 Assignment 9: Boxster Delivery
You’ve been tapped for a Boxster delivery to the docks in Zone
Industrielle. You have 3 minutes.
Try the course a couple times. There are two shortcuts on this
course. The first one will let you dodge the first cop. The
second shortcut dodges the second cop. Remember to take the left
fork (the main road) to go to the dock, though be careful rushing
through those dark exits.
8.3.10 Assignment 10: Road Rally
Knock over 12 cones in Corsica in under 4 minutes. Use the
Carrera 4.
Your first road rally. You may not beat it the first time. Take
your time and learn the course. Corsica is a multi-route course
with multiple intersections and even a “shortcut” that is not.
Use the replay to help you pinpoint corners you did not take
optimally. There’s occasional traffic but that should not be a
problem. Watch for the tunnel entrances. You can’t scrape the
wall there.
8.3.11 Assignment 11: Double 360’s
Take the 993 Turbo and do a 360, a 180, then another 360, in
under 36 seconds, between the cones of course.
Basically a longer version of Assignment 4, the trick is doing
the 360 on-demand in the space allotted.
8.3.12 Assignment 12: Rally Demo
Take the 996 and take the customer out for a spin. Don’t scratch
the car. You have 4 minutes.
This is similar to Assignment 10, with the catch of no damage.
8.3.13 Assignment 13: The Promotion Test
Take the 944 S2 and negotiate the Autobahn slalom… It’s raining,
and you have 59 seconds.
If you win, you get the title of Test Driver (no more “junior”).
You also get a special Porsche 911 2.7 RS in your “collection”.
8.3.14 Assignment 14: Boxster Delivery 2
You have 2:33 to get a Boxster to the customer at Avergne with no
scratch at all.
Don’t take shortcuts, as the town is somewhat messy to go
through.
8.3.15 Assignment 15: 4WD test
Take the Carrera 4 to the Alps and make it through in under 1:09.
The trick of driving on snow is 1) rain tires (though you don’t
get it here), 2) no sharp movements (smooth all the way), 3)
somewhat slower cornering speed, 4) stay on the road, and 5) 4WD
cars (already covered).
8.3.16 Assignment 16: Parts Delivery
You have 3:07 to get to the warehouse in Zone Industrielle AND
come back. Use the Carrera.
Use the first shortcut to avoid the first cop.
8.3.17 Assignment 17: Skidpad Redux
Take the Carrera S and make it through this skidpad exercise in
39 seconds or less.
8.3.18 Assignment 18: Race Billy
Take the Carrera and show Billy who’s the real driver… The course
is Pyrenees.
The trick at Pyrenees is to take each corner at the right speed.
Some corners can be taken at almost full throttle, while others
require cutting the apex.
8.3.19 Assignment 19: Skidpad Boxster
Take the Boxster S and do another skidpad pattern in 39 seconds.
8.3.20 Assignment 20: Race Some More
Take a Carrera and race Billy, Rolf, and Frank at Pyrenees. Same
Pyrenees hint applies.
8.3.21 Assignment 21: Capture the Flag
Auvergne rally, Carrera, 6:25 time limit. Enough said.
Despite the name, this is just another rally. The trick is taking
the sharp turns in minimal time, and that means SLOWING DOWN in
order to do the 180 spin.
8.3.22 Assignment 22: Slalom and 360
Beat 43-second time with Carrera on this new course, featuring a
360, a diagonal slalom, then another 360.
By now the 360 maneuver should be second nature… Remember to
countersteer!
8.3.23 Assignment 23: Promotion Race
Beat Rolf in the Carrera RS in Corsica and you win the Chief Test
Driver title.
If you win, you get the Chief Test Driver title, as well as the
custom paint job Boxster.
Carrera RS is a bit hard to handle, so don’t “trade paint” with
Rolf and spin out.
8.3.24 Assignment 24: GT1 360
Take this GT1 racer to the skidpad through its paces. Figure 8,
360, two turns, and some slalom. You have 37 seconds.
The 360 turn in a GT1 is tricky. You will HAVE to countersteer to
get the nose around in a GT1, whereas the “normal” cars have
enough momentum get the nose around without countersteer.
8.3.25 Assignment 25: Catch the Train
Get to the train station in under 3:30, no damage to the Carrera!
The train station is in the shortcut, so you’ll have to take the
train shortcut.
8.3.26 Assignment 26: Schwartzwald Slalom
You have 37 seconds to make it through this slalom in
Schwartzwald with the 911 Turbo.
8.3.27 Assignment 27: Billy’s Slalom
Back to the skidpad, you have 50 seconds to make it through this
tight slalom.
8.3.28 Assignment 28: Alps Switchback
With 37 second, you must complete the course in the Alps, which
includes TWO switchbacks, where it’s very easy to spinout… Take
each at the right speed. Try not to use the handbrakes.
This is probably the tightest time limit in the timed tests in
all of factory driver. You will beat this with only milliseconds
to spare.
8.3.29 Assignment 29: Another Race
Beat Frank and Billy in a race of Carrera 4’s at Pyrenees. They
aren’t THAT tough. Just stay near them and look for a GOOD place
to pass. Don’t push them, as they recover better than you.
8.3.30 Assignment 30: Skidpad Spins
With 50 seconds and a Carrera, perform a 180 spin, a REVERSE 180
spin, then 2 turns, and finally a 360 spin. You HAVE to use
manual transmission on this one.
The reverse 180 is usually the killer here. Consult the “hint” on
the reverse 180 maneuver.
8.3.31 Assignment 31: Monte Carlo Test
You have 3:40 to finish 3 laps of Monte Carlo 2 course, without
damaging the GT1 racer. This should be no problem for you…
8.3.32 Assignment 32: Race the Racers
The Porsche Racing Team decided they want to race you… They’re
sending 4 more GT1s to take you on. Make 3 laps of Monte Carlo 1,
and may the best driver win…
This race is TOUGH. You’ll HAVE to use all the dirty tricks and
need a lot of luck to win this one. If you can make it all the
way to the front on the first lap, you should have no problems.
Feel free to use the handbrakes to help you negotiate the
switchback.
8.3.33 Assignment 33: 996 Turbo Run
Take the 996 Turbo and make 2 laps around the Monte Carlo 5 in
under 2:30, don’t scratch it!
This is actually a preview of the next race. While the order say
don’t scratch it, a minor scratch wouldn’t really hurt.
8.3.34 Assignment 34: Final Promotion
Your chance for the Ace Test Driver is here… Beat Stephanie on
the Monte Carlo 3 track in two laps with the 996 Turbo.
If you win, you get the title of Ace Test Driver, as well as the
bonus 996 Turbo.
8.4 Full Factory Driver Summary by Jeff Reid
## type Where Car used
=================================================================
=========
01 cones Weissach Skid Pad 1997 Boxster
02 cones Weissach Skid Pad 1994 911 Carrera Coupe (993)
03 cones Corsica 1973 911 Carrera RS 2.7 Coupe
04 cones Weissach Skid Pad 1997 911 Carrera S 3.6 Coupe (993)
05 cones Autobahn 1995 911 Turbo 3.6 Coupe (993)
06 solo run Cote d'Azur 1995 911 Turbo 3.6 Coupe (993)
07 cones Normandie 1998 911 Carrera 3.4 Cabriolet (996)
08 cones Weissach Skid Pad 1996 911 Carrera Targa (993)
09 solo run Zone Industrielle 1997 Boxster
10 cones run Corsica 1995 911 Carrera 4 Coupe (993)
11 cones Weissach Skid Pad 1995 911 Turbo 3.6 Coupe (993)
12 solo run Corsica 1998 911 Carrera 3.4 Coupe (996)
13 cones Autobahn 1989 944 S2 Cabriolet
14 solo run Auvergne 1997 Boxster
15 short run Alps 1999 911 Carrera 4 Cabriolet (996)
16 solo run Zone Industrielle 1994 911 Carrera Cabriolet (993)
17 cones Weissach Skid Pad 1997 911 Carrera S 3.6 Coupe (993)
18 race Pyrenees 1998 911 Carrera 3.4 Cabriolet (996)
19 cones Weissach Skid Pad 2000 Boxster S
20 race Pyrenees 1998 911 Carrera 3.4 Cabriolet (996)
21 cones run Auvergne 1994 911 Carrera Coupe (993)
22 cones Weissach Skid Pad 1998 911 Carrera 3.4 Cabriolet (996)
23 race Corsica 1973 911 Carrera RS 2.7 Coupe
24 cones Weissach Skid Pad 1998 911 GT1 race version
25 solo run Zone Inustrielle 1994 911 Carrera Coupe (993)
26 cones Schwarzwald 1995 911 Turbo 3.6 Coupe (993)
27 cones Weissach Skid Pad 1999 911 Carrera 4 Coupe (996)
28 cones Alps 1995 911 Turbo 3.6 Coupe (993)
29 race Pyrenees 1995 911 Carrera 4 Coupe (993)
30 cones Weissach Skid Pad 1998 911 Carrera 3.4 Cabriolet (996)
31 solo run Monte Carlo 2 3 laps 1998 911 GT1 race version
32 race Monte Carlo 1 3 laps 1998 911 GT1 race version
33 solo run Monte Carlo 5 2 laps 2000 911 Turbo (996)
34 race Monte Carlo 3 2 laps 2000 911 Turbo (996)
Traffic present in solo runs and races until event 29.
9 Miscellaneous Information
9.1 EA Racing
http://www.earacing.com (EA racing) is was going to be closed
down on January 8th, 2002. It has been superceded by Motor City
Online, which is an online massive multiplayer service with
monthly subscription fee.
UPDATE: On January 8th 2002, EA suddenly reversed their decision!
They will keep EARacing running, but no mention on period of
time.
In case EARacing ever go down, try the alternative client listed
at http://ncop.racerplanet.com
9.2 Multiplayer Protocol
In general, you should only use the default (red) cars in online
races, unless the host says it is okay to use tuned/customized
cars.
Most races should race identical cars, or at least same class (or
lower), usually collision off.
Jeff Reid comments: "If collision is on, it's a free for all. In
NFS:HS, when collision is on, a free for all is expected, and
nobody gets upset. If you want a clean race, collision is off. If
you can't get the host to turn off collision, just keep bumping
him and ruin his chance in winning. After a few races he'll get
the hint. "
9.3 Bugs
In the Evolution “showroom”, there’s a bug with the 911 (996)
models. The car’s right-side numbers are not visible, if you had
applied racing numbers in the paintshop. If you have both doors
open, you can just see the number in the WRONG angle when you
look in from the left side. Apparently someone forgot the invert
the angle when they copied the numbers from the left side.
9.4 Cheat codes
Go to main menu (out of Evolution). Create a new player with the
one of following names to activate the cheat. A sound should
confirm the cheat being active. Then select your regular
character and continue.
Some of the these codes (NOT ALL) work in multiplayer as well.
Gulliver Turn the Porsches into tiny radio-controlled cars
(complete with antenna!)
Smash Up Skidpad destruction derby racing
Dakar Car physics and the tracks both change to rally
style physics.
Fuzzyfuz Enable police cars in quick races (some tracks do not
have police)
yraGyraG All cars get 993 physics
fetherw8 Makes all cars heavier
Note: old version of the FAQ listed “allporsche”. That is not a
valid code for the PC version.
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